Introducing the Wines of Portugal



Eugenio Jardim
A few weeks ago I attended an informal Portuguese wine tasting with Jardiniere Wine Director, the utterly charming, Eugenio Jardim. It was very gratifying for me on a number of levels. A few years ago, during the process of writing WinePassport: Portugal I got very excited about Portuguese wines. My enthusiasm has not waned. I am happy whenever I meet those who also enjoy sharing the pleasures of Portuguese wines, of which there are many.

Jardim had just returned from Portugal where he tried lots of wine and even wrote about regions of the country. We started out with one of my favorites, a Luis Pato sparkling wine from Bairrada and then proceeded with several wines I was unfamiliar with but enjoyed greatly. Then a week or so ago I went to a wine tasting of Portuguese wines that lacked distributors on the West Coast. The mood was giddy as wine writers, retailers and sommeliers discovered unique and captivating wines at often bargain prices. While red table wines from the Douro valley are becoming more common, there is much more to discover.

Next week Vini Portugal will host it's annual wine tasting event in San Francisco on April 5th, 2010, and Evan Goldstein will be giving master classes. I can't wait! If you are interested in Portuguese wines, this is THE event to attend.

While I suggest you also purchase a copy of WinePassport: Portugal, here are tips from Jardim for enjoying Portuguese wines and my comments as well:

1. Portugal is where you will find tremendous value when it comes to wine. Try something new, you don't have much to lose.

2. Don't get hung up on the varietals. As Jardim pointed out, they can be hard to pronounce and many wines are blends. When starting out, look to regions and styles instead.

3. Portugal is the last frontier. This is ironic, because Portugal has been making wine for a very, very long time. Grapes were brought to Portugal by the Phoenicians in 600 BC and Portugal has been exporting wine since the 14th century.

4. The native varieties are wonderful. Some may be similar to varietals in Spain, but others are completely unique and more often than not, food friendly.


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Stonehouse 27 Indian Sauces



Stonehouse 27 Sauces
I'm not big on convenience foods in general, but I like the idea of an Indian "simmer sauce" to create a quick meal at home with whatever meat, seafood, tofu or vegetables I happen to have on hand. Unfortunately I never found a brand of Indian sauces that really delivered. The flavors were not great or they were too oily. Well, problem solved. Stonehouse 27 makes a line of Indian sauces that are very high quality with no artificial ingredients or preservatives. They even use agave syrup in place of the more common corn syrup and are gluten-free and vegetarian (and mostly vegan).

The sauces are not necessarily what you might find at a typical Indian restaurant. They are inspired by the Portuguese and Anglo-Indian heritage of the company�s founder, Sharon Fernandes. I was given samples around the time of the Fancy Food Show earlier this year and recently had the chance to try the Tamarind and Garlic, Cilantro and Coconut and the Cashews and Cream sauces with various fresh ingredients. I was really struck by the bright freshness of the flavors. The tamarind was nice and tangy, the cashew and coconut was creamy and rich. They are very flexible and easy to use. If you use meat and vegetables they make a very tasty one dish meal. Frankly they are better than the Indian food I can get delivered.

They are a bit more expensive than other sauces I've seen at about $8 for a jar, but for the quality and convenience I think they are well worth the money. Half a jar and half a pound of shrimp or chicken plus some vegetables made enough for at least three servings.I do think you need a bit of cooking sense to use them. The time necessary for simmering depends on the size you have cut your meat or vegetables. And I like that they are unsalted so I can season to taste. But even when I am bleary-eyed making a satisfying meal with these sauces is a breeze and a nice change of pace from jars of spaghetti sauce. Keep your eyes open for them stores near you or purchase online.


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All about Savoy Cabbage



Savoy Cabbage
Savoy cabbage is the prettiest cabbage of all, with its fantastic crinkly leaves and its contrasting dark on pale color palette. Only a few outer leaves are dark green and quite so textured, inside it is creamy and pale. Despite its rugged appearance it's actually very tender and sweet. Best of all, it cooks quickly and easily and it doesn't have the sulfur odor so distinctive in other cabbage; just don't over cook it. Savoy cabbage is named for the Savoy region, a medieval duchy on the border of Italy, France and Switzerland. But I think we should call it by its lovely Italian name, cavolo verza. Now that's the name of a star!

Savoy cabbage is high in vitamin K, vitamin C and fiber. It's also a very good source of fiber, manganese, folate, vitamin B6, potassium, and omega-3 fatty acids. Heads of savoy cabbage are so large it's a good idea to have several dishes in mind when you purchase or harvest it. Because it is so tender, don't shy away from using it in salads. Just use salt and a vinegar or lemony dressing to help it wilt.

I like just about all cabbages, but savoy cabbage is my favorite and not just because it is so beautiful and healthy. The sweetness of savoy cabbage makes it a wonderful foil for rich and salty foods like duck confit, bacon or sausages. But because it is naturally mild and sweet, it is equally delicious as a bed for mild white fish or seafood. It can be cooked or used raw. It can be braised, roasted or boiled, and it's very easy to saute it in butter, olive oil or bacon fat. It can be used in preserved recipes like kimchi or sauerkraut.

Here are some ways to use savoy cabbage:

* Steam and serve with fish, or wrap the fish in the leaves and steam

* Saute it with boiled potatoes, garlic and onions

* Stuff the leaves with rice or potatoes and ground meat

* Add to minestrone

* Make sauerkraut

* Make kimchi

* Saute with bacon and spaetzle

* Use in borscht

* Shred it with carrots and seaon with apple cider vinegar, sugar and salt to make cole slaw

* Saute cabbage, bacon and onions then toss with egg noodles

* Combine with sliced sugar snap peas and a creamy dressing in slaw


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Favorites from the Chocolate Salon



Did you make it to the Chocolate Salon this past weekend? It just gets better and better every year. There are salons held in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, Seattle and Las Vegas annually. In addition to trying tons of chocolate, one of the best things about attending a Chocolate Salon is that you get to meet many chocolatiers in person.

This year I was a judge and got a chance to try pounds and pounds of chocolate even before the actual event. I discovered there is a lot of very mundane chocolate, but also some amazingly good stuff from new confectioners who have only been open for business for barely a year or two.

A perennial favorite of mine is Amano, and this year they took many of the top awards. But since I've written about Amano before, I'm going to focus on chocolatiers that were new to me. Keep your eyes open for their fantastic chocolate and chocolate confections!

William Dean Chocolates
Bill Brown is the soft-spoken chocolatier behind William Dean Chocolates, named after his two grandfathers. His chocolates are exquisite and beautiful too! The popular peanut butter and jelly chocolate is what first grabbed me. His talent really shines in everything he makes with fruit, even pate de fruits. I also loved the bitter green tea white chocolate bar and the tropical caramel because they were not too sweet.

Clarine's Florentines
Clarine's Florentine's cookies dipped in chocolate are hands down the best florentines I've ever tried. There is something to be said for doing one thing, and doing it very well. The cookies have tons of toasted caramelized flavor and the chocolate is rich and luxurious. Like taking a little vacation in cookie form. Made in Berkeley.

Vice Chocolates
Oakland based Vice chocolates are really something special. Named Vice because the chocolatier found on an elimination diet that chocolate was one thing she could still eat. The dark chocolate, fig and anise seed bar was a unique combination of flavors and textures. It's dark, sultry and exotic, a most sophisticated fruit and spice bar. All the chocolates are very adult and intense. When it comes to the bon bons, I especially liked the Domina, a dark chocolate ganache infused with tangy cr�me fra�che, black tea, bergamont, and orange oil and the Violent Heart, filled with a chipotle infused caramel.

Quite a few of my favorites also happened to be local to the Bay Area:

Her Coconess made me rethink rocky road. High quality ingredients is what makes it so good. Imagine super toasty fresh almonds, delicate marshmallows all wrapped in dark chocolate. Mmmmm!

The Cocoa Delice cognac truffle was the best truffle at the show, in my opinion. Not too boozy, but very rich.

Dolce Bella made the crispiest toffee. A nice light crunch, very buttery, but not the kind of toffee that sticks in your teeth.

Another toffee-like treat was from Kika's Treats--caramelized graham crackers dipped in dark chocolate. A brand new comfort food, I could nibble on these all day.

Coco-luxe's cinnamon chocolate almonds are a nice twist on the usual chocolate almond. Very snackable (if that's a word).

A couple honorable mentions:
Kay Dillon's confections were surprisingly good, especially since they are vegan. She uses coconut and all organic ingredients. Dillon is a seasoned pastry chef with a wedding cake business, but her caramels and ganache are also wonderful.

Alter Eco fair trade certified chocolate has come a long way. The smooth textured Blackout bar has deep cocoa powder flavor and the Velvet bar has a touch of milk chocolate but also a very creamy smooth texture. The Quinoa bar is like the best ever version of a Nestle Crunch. These bars are a very good value and can be found at supermarkets.

Check out all the award winners.


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Brian Boitano Interview



Brian Boitano
I watch the Food Network show, What Would Brian Boitano Make? for its humor, its easy, healthy food and because it's shot in San Francisco. While wrapping up filming of the second season, I got a chance to talk with Brian Boitano about the show and more....

I saw photos of your street cart episode online recently, that looked like fun. What have been some of the highlights of shooting this season?
It's even better than last year, we're just finishing up, I did a fun episode with the scooter society and with Manuela (the very Spanish mother of a skating friend). Manuela makes a comeback. Lots of real people; friends really liked the first episode with her. Also my French handyman Guy, who doesn't ever work. We're going to have reoccurring characters.

What's your process for coming up with recipes for the show?
There's a theme first--like the Chinese episode. I think about what my guest likes to eat. For example Manuella had never had Chinese food and didn't think she'd like it. She likes Spanish food, she likes Paella. So I created a fried rice dish for her. What happens is I keep a notebook in the kitchen and take notes. But I don't do measurements. I write it step by step, then I break it down with measurements later. When I first learned to cook I would read recipes and measure everything and then I realized it's not fun, it's like skating where everything goes according to a strict plan.

I try to come up with food that fits what my guests want, for example with the roller derby episode I was just trying to please my guests (that prominently featured bacon). In reality I have a very healthy diet. You have to enjoy the flavors of food and not just fat. I think that you don't have to have a lot of fat and cream, I like how I feel when I'm eating lighter. It's not hard to put cauliflower and apples together to make a puree. It's really a San Francisco mentality. For me that means being green in the kitchen and food that's accessible. My producers are purists not in a stuffy way but about fresh ingredients. They shop at the Ferry Building and Rainbow Grocery, even Bi-Rite and Cal-Mart.

I'd describe the humor on your show as cheeky. How do you get away with being on the Food Network and seemingly making fun of it at the same time? You don't fit the mold....
The Food Network was happy to go in a different direction. I watch the Food Network all the time but I understand the challenge to stay fresh. For example I'm trying to find different ways to say "flavorful." I try to avoid saying things like "depth of flavor." I shoot one episode in 5 days so I have time to think things through. One day is just for cooking. It gives me a break to think about it and I can focus on the action happening behind the scenes. It's easier for me to come up with ideas because I'm not in the kitchen all the time.

Is your goal to be like Martha Stewart and have a line of products, magazines?I would love to do that, it would be really fun, it would be right up my alley. I have an idea of what I would like. I have an opinion about everything, even jarred foods. But for now I'm happy doing what I'm doing.

How much of the styling is your own?A lot, I lay out how I would do thing and the production team takes it from there. I like a rustic style. I have really easy going friends who aren't fussy. I have the attitude that if my friends can't make it I won't do it on the show.

Is there anything you haven't been able to do on the show?
I want to do an olive oil cake next season, if we get picked up. I wanted to do an episode of casseroles since I grew up in the 70's my mom made casseroles a lot. I hated them! So I wanted to do a modern twist on casseroles. The production company film was against the idea, apparently they don't film well.

What Would Brian Boitano Make with radishes?My favorite thing is to serve them the French way, with a little plate of salt. and people just dunk it. Great with drinks or wine.

What Would Brian Boitano Make with swiss chard?It's a staple for me. I eat it a lot. I would saute it in olive oil and galric and a little red chi flakes, salt and pepper.

What Would Brian Boitano Make with sardines?I like sardines! I would do little remoulade and probably grill them but fried is good too. Those are the two ways I like serving fish, grilled or fried. I like to cook it on the skin side and so it gets all crispy.

Your show features a lot of entertaining. Do you have people over to your house often? Oh yeah! Not when I'm filming. I'm too tired but I give dinner parties, pizza parties, I have a brick in the oven. I do game night and sometimes serve hors d' oeuvres and drinks.

Alder of Vinography mentioned that you're something of a wine lover. What styles do you prefer? What's your house red and your house white?
It's weird I'm into a white wine kick, I went years of dirnking red, and now white. I like Pinot and Merlot and not a big Cab fan, unless they are less tannic on the back end. I like blends of Cab Franc and Merlot, Bordeaux, I just buy everything, I generally stick with California wines but I'll get on a kick with Italian wines like Amarone and Barolo. Because he's Italian, my dad likes Montalcino Montepulciano. I always try to order to a different wine so I can learn more. I'll get a case of something. Right now I'm drinking Chardonnay, Rombauer and Trefethen.

You live in San Francisco, where do you like to eat?I love Frascati for the dark chocolate bread pudding, I like Polker's for salads and for when I don't feel like spending a lot of money. Amarena is good, a little expensive but good. One of my favorites is Pompei's Grotto on the Wharf. When my mom and dad were dating they used to go there. The food is really clean and simple. Best fish in the city.

Thanks Brian!


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The Tablehopper�s Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco



The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco

Photo credit: Rick Camargo Photography

Zagat, move aside, because the 'hopper is in the house! Another friend, another book. What can I say? I have some pretty talented friends. I adore Marcia Gagliardi aka the Tablehopper. She's smart and funny and writes a cheeky newsletter all about the latest in San Francisco dining not to mention drinking. I can't believe she's only been at it for four years because the Tablehopper is as San Francisco as the Golden Gate Bridge.

The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco is a unique guidebook. While I was skeptical at first I must admit, I have used the book quite a few times already in planning various get-togethers, both with friends and family. It's the ultimate guide to finding "the right spot for every occasion." Looking for somewhere romantic? Or the perfect spot to nurse a broken heart? Need a place to go with a big group that won't break the bank? Somewhere to take conservative older folks? Listen, the book would be worth the price alone for Marcia's list of favorite places or her itineraries for those visiting our fair city.

Marcia lists some of my favorite places but perhaps more importantly, a lot of under-the-radar spots you probably wouldn't hear about otherwise. Am I biased? Sure, but I really do think it's a great book and I wouldn't recommend it if I didn't absolutely believe in it. But don't take my word for it, you can read an excerpt. Also check out the Tablehopper web site for upcoming events with Marcia.


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Quinoa Salad with Arugula, Asparagus & Avocado Recipe



Quinoa Salad with Arugula, Asparagus and Avocado

Ah, Spring! We are enjoying a warm spell right now and the fresh produce reflects the change of seasons with earthy root vegetables giving way to tender bright greens. I am so happy to have sunshine and bright green asparagus to eat! I recently discovered how delicious asparagus is when served raw, in salads. The trick is to shave it thinly with the sharpest vegetable peeler you have, then dress it with oil, lemon and salt so it wilts, just slightly. Asparagus is like the poster child for Spring.

asparagus salad

I had eaten quinoa, but never tried cooking it until just recently when I received some samples of it--red, white and black--from Roland Food. Reading about quinoa I discovered while it has the texture of grain, it's actually a fruit. It's also gluten-free. It is very bitter unless thoroughly soaked and rinsed. Fortunately quinoa from Roland Food is already soaked saving me the bother.

quinoa
Quinoa comes from the Andes, a staple in Peru, Chile and Bolivia where it has been cultivated since at least 3,000 BCE. It is high in protein, calcium and iron and the white variety has a sweet flavor. Most importantly, it has all the nine essential amino acids making it a complete protein. I tried toasting the quinoa, but I like the milder sweeter flavor for this recipe. It has a fluffier almost creamy texture that works well with the strong flavor of the leafy arugula. I really like the addition of dill, but you could easily leave it out or use parsley if you prefer. You could also use a slightly different mix of vegetables.

Note: If you don't plan on serving this salad right away, reserve the arugula and toss it in the salad right before serving.

Quinoa Salad with Arugula, Asparagus and Avocadomakes 2-4 servings

Ingredients

1/2  cup uncooked quinoa, rinsed and drained
1 cup water
5 asparagus spears, shaved thin (use a vegetable peeler)
1 handful fresh baby arugula, roughly chopped
1 green onion, chopped
2  Tablespoons lemon juice, fresh squeezed
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted and diced
2 Tablespoons fresh dill, chopped (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Instructions

In a medium saucepan combine quinoa and water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Simmer, covered, about 12- 15 minutes or until liquid is completely absorbed. Meanwhile In a mixing bowl, make the dressing by whisking together lemon juice and oil. Add avocado, green onion and arugula to the dressing.

Transfer quinoa to a medium bowl and allow to cool. Add quinoa to dressing and vegetable mixture; toss with fresh dill and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve at room temperature.
Enjoy!

Here are just a few interesting quinoa recipes from fellow bloggers:

Stuffed Cabbage with Quinoa & Roasted Sweet Potatoes from Karina's Kitchen
Quinoa Pudding with Macerated Strawberries & Pistachios from Cannelle & Vanille
Quinoa Salad with Tomato, Feta and Parsley from The Perfect Pantry
Quinoa with Roasted Radishes & Pearl Onions from FatFree Vegan Kitchen
Warm & Nutty Cinnamon Quinoa from 101 Cookbooks
Quinoa Pilaf from Simply Recipes



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