December started out chilly with a quick weekend in Montreal and ended back in San Francisco after a glorious week on Oahu. There was lots of good food in both places, stay tuned for more details!

Some of my favorite posts on the Epicurious blog were about cognac and brilliant (non-alcoholic) bubbly beverages. I also ran an interview with Elizabeth Andoh, author of the gorgeous book Kansha. One of my more popular posts was my best tips for making macaroni and cheese.

Speaking of tips, my somewhat controversial post on travel tips ran on Between Bites, there was also Dorie Greenspan's shopping guide to Paris (you'll want to bookmark it for your next trip!). Last but not least I also had a piece about the sweet treats you can eat in Louisville.

Finally I have some big news to share, as of January I will be the San Francisco editor of BlackboardEats.com. I hope you will poke around the site and sign up for great restaurant deals in Los Angeles, New York or San Francisco as well as the "everywhere" edition. I will continue blogging here and there.

Happy New Year!

I love reading trend reports and like a horoscope I scan to see what I agree with and what I don't. I hope you enjoy my predictions for what and how we will be eating and drinking in 2011! Agree or disagree, let me know your predictions and opinions in the comments section.


1. Farmers and other producers are stepping further into the limelight as we grow weary of celebrity chefs. Did I just say that? Without naming any names, let's just say some chefs seem a bit overexposed. Lots of cookbooks in 2010 featured farmers, farms and locally grown produce. Farmers markets and eating local continued to grow in popularity as people discovered how good truly fresh produce tastes. Some of the best cookbooks featuring farmers this year were Growing Roots: The New Generation of Sustainable Farmers, Cooks, and Food Activists, Edible: A Celebration of Local Foods, Eating Local:The Cookbook Inspired by America's Farmers and my favorite, Harvest to Heat: Cooking with America's Best Chefs, Farmers, and Artisans.

2. Wild ingredients. This might be the next big thing after eating "local." Some are calling it "forest to table." Foraging won't be limited to mushrooms, but will include all kinds of unfamiliar ingredients from sea rocket to miner's lettuce and cucumber root. Haut cuisine chefs are already seeking out obscure but local wild ingredients. Daniel Patterson and Noma chef Rene Redzepi captivated their audience in San Francisco earlier this year when they spoke on the subject and handed out samples. Look for classes on wild ingredients and foraging expeditions.


3. Unorthodox dining options. Pop ups, food trucks, market stalls, underground supper clubs. It's not new, but the phenomenon just keeps growing. The difficult economy has inspired great creativity when it comes to tweaking traditional food business models. In San Francisco the restaurant within a restaurant took hold in the form of Mission Chinese Food, in residence at Lung Shan. Both entities seem to be thriving under the new arrangement. And pastry chefs have been branching out beyond restaurants to offer all kinds of exciting treats including ice cream, candy and cookies, find them at farmer's markets, pop ups, ice cream shops and more. A good example? William Werner's Tell Tale Society that offers a CSA-like monthly package of assorted sweets.

4. More interesting cocktails, beyond just vodka drinks. I think whisky and gin will continue to gain in popularity, but also the full range of browns--bourbon, rum, rye, tequila, and cognac. Rum in particular seems poised for a revival, punches and Tiki bars and tropical drinks are definitely back in vogue, examples include Smuggler's Cove in San Francisco and The Hurricane Club in NYC. Now will someone please let Miami know? Drinks there are stuck in the 80's!


5. Technology is making inroads into the dining room. Some examples include Qsine the Celebrity cruise line restaurant where iPads are used as menus for food and wine, location aware check-ins and online dining discounts being offered by start-ups like Groupon and BlackboardEats, and an OpenTable iPhone app for making restaurant reservations on the fly.

6. Fusion is back! Actually I'm not sure it ever went away, but right now, it's not a dirty word. It's not just high end cuisine that is combining French and Japanese, you'll also find it often with street food, and in more everyday restaurants too. David Chang makes bacon dashi and Dennis Lee of Namu makes Gamja fries with kimchee relish, teriyaki, and chopped short ribs. Other favorite bites in this category include Korean tacos, mole duck sliders, Japanese ceviche, ube red velvet cupcakes, Indian pizza.


7. Offshoots, gastropubs and burgers. Even the most high end restaurants need something to appeal to the masses. Look for more big name chefs and restaurants to open accessible restaurants, cafes and even airport kiosks. The tastiest food I bought in an airport this year came from Icebox Cafe in Miami, a trendy Lincoln Road favorite.

8. More ethnic fast casual. Call them chains or just multiple outlets, these restaurants have hit on a formula that resonates. Local examples include Out the Door, King of Thai Noodles, Papalote and Pica Pica. I can only hope we will see more Japan-based high quality ramen shops open up as they have in places in Honolulu.


9. Savory sweets. I'd love to tell you that cupcakes are going away. But they aren't. However they are morphing as are other trendy desserts, and taking on adult and savory profiles. Butch Bakery makes cupcakes flecked with bacon, and infused with everything from beer to brandy. Foie gras ice cream has appeared in San Francisco, LA and in Montreal, meanwhile soft serve vanilla ice cream topped with olive oil and salt is becoming a dessert menu standard. At last year's Winter Fancy Food Show Fabrique Delices was sampling savory macarons then at Boutique Point G. in Montreal I discovered crazy but delicious flavors including white truffle, parmesan and green olive. New York based Little Oven sells olive oil and balsamic macarons.

10. Sustainable meat. While offal has been trendy there often isn't that much of it available. With the concern over health, safety and the general nightmare that is concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFO), I think there will be renewed interest in rabbit, animals that graze such as pasture raised lamb, bison, venison and goats as well as organic and grass-fed beef. I also think less used cuts will be more popular such as veal breast and lamb riblets.

I'm not much of a coffee drinker but I love hot chocolate and I love tea. I enjoy the richness of hot chocolate, but sometimes it's a bit too much. I certainly couldn't drink it everyday. I have tried quite a few chocolate flavored teas and while some of them are pretty good, I've discovered a more satisfying solution. I make hot cocoa with equal parts tea and milk.

On the surface this might seem like a weird thing to do, combining cocoa and tea but it's really quite delicious. I learned from chocolate authority Alice Medrich that the fat in dairy products coats your tongue so the flavor of chocolate is sometimes muted in very creamy preparations. She said you can make cocoa with hot water, but I have found that tea provides an amazing addition of flavor. I like a little bit of milk to add some texture. The result is a beverage that is richer and more viscous than tea and milk, but not quite as cloying as hot cocoa can be. In the Winter, I could drink it just about everyday!

The types of tea that work with chocolate vary. I've tried it with herbal, green and flavored black tea. I like it with Earl Grey, herbal peppermint tea, but my hands down favorite is with jasmine tea. I've had chocolate confections that were flavored with citrus, peppermint and jasmine so I was fairly certain each of those flavors would work nicely. But it's certainly worth more experimentation. There could be other types of tea that are wonderful with cocoa too maybe chai or vanilla tea? Let me know what types you try!

Note: The amount of cocoa will vary based on the brand you use. You want to use enough cocoa to make a cup, but replace part of the milk or water with tea. You could also use a sweetened cocoa if that's what you have on hand just adjust the sugar to your liking.

Tea-infused Hot CocoaMakes 1 serving

Ingredients

1 teaspoon tea or a tea bag
2 Tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder (I am currently using Hershey's)
1 1/2 Tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1/2 cup milk (I use whole milk)

Instructions

Make a cup of strong tea as directed, use a little less than the usual amount of water, no more than 6 ounces. In a small saucepan whisk together the cocoa powder, sugar and a few tablespoons of brewed tea, to make a smooth paste with no lumps. Whisk in the milk and about 1/2 cup of tea. Heat gently until hot, but do not boil, serve.

Enjoy!

When it comes to cookbooks, there is one for just about everyone. There are also certain categories like baking and pastry where it is impossible to pick just one.

SWEETS
Baking is not easy, but some cookbook authors explain it effortlessly. At first I was going to call this section "bakers" but it's really more than that. These are books for anyone who appreciates sweets. Even non-bakers will find something to love.

Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunch Melt-In-Your-Mouth Cookies
Alice Medrich is a goddess of baking and chocolate. She is like a perfectionist, scientist and genius pastry chef all rolled into one. Her recipes are simply marvels. In this book Medrich works with different flours, and often scales back the sugar and fat so flavors really shine.

Bookmarked recipes: Wheat-free toffee bars, Breakfast biscotti, Pebbly beach fruit squares

Why? Because these are not just your standard run-of-the-mill cookies. There are lots of originals you won't find elsewhere

Who? Any passionate baker or cookie appreciator








Ready for Dessert
David Lebovitz, blogging phenom and former pastry chef at Chez Panisse has written several cookbooks, but this might be his best yet. It's a compilation of all his favorites--from ice cream to cookies to cake and fruit desserts. You will also enjoy the notes with each recipe that tell stories, share tips and often produce giggles.

Bookmarked recipes: Bahamian rum cake, Chocolate crack cookies, Watermelon sake sorbet

Why? You've read his blog, and probably tried his recipes for free. Now it's time to pay the man!

Who? Anyone who appreciates well-written and well-tested recipes in the specialty where you need them the most. Lebovitz is not working in a professional kitchen so these recipes should work as well for you as they do for him.





Bon Appetit Desserts
You know why you read Bon Appetit, you are looking for fresh, solid recipes that you can serve to friends as well as family. In this massive volume there are step-by-step photos, ingredient and equipment notes and plenty of tips.

Bookmarked recipes: Banana caramel napoleons, Oranges with pomegranate molasses and honey, Black forest boule-de-neige

Why? Creative, impressive recipes and plenty of them, 600 to be exact.













SPECIAL INTERESTSGluten-free? Italian food fanatic? Flavor freak? Science geek? Guy with only bacon in the fridge? I got you covered. These are books for special audiences and special needs.

Gluten-free Girl and the Chef
The book is about Shauna James Ahern, the gluten-free girl and Daniel Ahern, her husband, the chef. It's filled with recipes that mostly would appeal to anyone, gluten-free or not. But there are also recipes for those who cannot eat gluten. Embracing life and love and good tasting things are what the 'girl and the chef are all about and so is the book.

Bookmarked recipes: Bacon-wrapped pork belly, Watermelon gazpacho, Creamless corn chowder

Why? The stories and the recipes will help you find or rediscover the joy that comes in the kitchen. The tips on gluten-free baking alone are priceless.

Who? Well, gluten-free first and foremost, but anyone who cooks for someone gluten-free would appreciate this book too.








Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen
Ethan Stowell is to Italian food what David Chang is to Asian food, not a purist but a flavor junkie and a stickler for quality. Both make big bold food and manage to coax the most flavor out of everything they make. They seduce you with texture and intensity. They are not about authenticity, but about creating fantastic food. Hallelujah! I love Stowell's restaurants and am excited to be able to make some his most memorable dishes at home.

Bookmarked recipes: Sardine crudo with celery hearts, pine nuts and lemon, Spaghetti with garlic, chile and sea urchin, Rhubarb soup with prosecco

Why? Ethan Stowell is one of the most exciting chefs around and even if you don't follow his recipes, you may be inspired by his approach

Who? Anyone who appreciates gutsy, sexy food and is willing to seek out some ingredients you won't likely find in the supermarket






My Calabria
Americans love Italian food and yet our repertoire is terribly limited. We know so little about Italian food and most Italian cookbooks rarely if ever cover Calabrian food. Cooking teacher and Calabrian native Rosetta Costantino has shared her family recipes and a glimpse into a different way of life.

Bookmarked recipes: Creamy chickpea soup with shrimp and anise seed, Cooked red onion salad with oregano, Potatoes layered with artichokes and breadcrumbs

Why? Because there is so much more to Italian food than pizza and pasta!(but yes, there are some great recipes for pizza and pasta in this book too)

Who? For anyone who adores Italian food, and wants to experience a bit of a lifestyle filled with gardening, foraging and preserving in addition to cooking what is in season





Recipes Every Man Should Know
I have a thing against little bitty books. Except if you are a guy and you're intimidated by cooking, perhaps a little bitty book is just the ticket.

Bookmarked recipes: Better-than-IHOP pancakes, Greens with bacon, Lobster with beer and butter sauce

Why? Because these dude-friendly recipes by the lovely writer and recipe developer Susan Russo will coax even the most reticent man into the kitchen

Who? Any guy who isn't sure where the kitchen is, let alone what goes on in there.












Cooking for Geeks
This is a book for people who want to know how stuff works. It's not extremely practical because of the way it's organized, but you can always look things up in the index (if you want practical you should get The Keys to Good Cooking). The volume is a mishmash of articles, interviews, science experiments and more.

Bookmarked recipes: Honestly? There are recipes, but it's not really about that.

Why? For the fun of it

Who? Science majors and those who wish they were

It's always tough to choose which cookbooks to recommend from the myriad published each year. Today I'm going to share with you the books I think are particularly worthwhile in two categories, basics and behemoths. Next I'll cover sweets and special interests...

BASICS
Ah the basics! This year lots of cookbook authors were returning to simpler recipes. I think it's safe to say that at least some of the time new cooks as well as experienced ones want recipes that are tasty and yet not necessarily time-consuming.

Harvest to Heat
There were a lot of "farm to table" cookbooks this year, but this is the only one I am keeping. It balances the voice of farmers, chefs and artisans. The book is filled with contemporary American recipes that are genuinely appealing and unique.

Bookmarked recipes: Angel hair pasta with oyster butter cream sauce and caviar, Creme fraiche galette with heirloom tomatoes, Goat cheese panna cotta with caramelized figs

Why?
I always get nervous with "chef" recipes. But in this case seasoned test kitchen director from Saveur, Kelly Kochendorfer has clearly made sure these recipes will WORK in a home kitchen. They are straight-forward and don't have a million ingredients.

Who?
This is for creative cooks looking for new flavors and excited to use the best ingredients but who don't see the point of torturing them.

Heart of the Artichoke
Imagine a chef who spends six months a year in a restaurant making food for the fussiest guests and six months in a tiny galley kitchen with a rickety stove and barely any counter space. Meet David Tanis of Chez Panisse. His recipes are mostly pretty easy, but rely on the best quality ingredients.

Bookmarked recipes: Celery, radish and watercress salad with walnut oil, Buckwheat galettes with ham and cheese, Black sticky rice pudding with coconut cream.

Why?
It's fascinating to see the way a restaurant chef cooks at home, when he wants to, to please himself and his friends.

Who?
Anyone who has access to fantastic quality ingredients and wants to learn how to make them shine.

Sara Moulton's Everyday Family Dinners
Sara Moulton isn't on national television everyday anymore, nor is she in the kitchen at Gourmet magazine. Where is Sara? She's at home, cooking dinnner. In touch with the "weeknight cook" in all of us, she seems to know just what we want to eat.

Bookmarked recipes: Chicken cassoulet, Edamame mash, Raspberry almond rugelach

Why?
Duh, this book is just a no-brainer. Appealing recipes, by a cookbook author who will never leave you in the lurch.

Who?
Everyone and anyone responsible for getting dinner on the table.





BEHEMOTHSEvery year there are some huge cookbooks that come out. Not all of them are worth their weight in gold. More is not always better. But sometimes as Mae West famously said, "Too much of a good thing can be wonderful."

Around My French Table
I don't know anyone who is not amazed by Dorie Greenspan. She's not only a talented baker and meticulous recipe writer but an internet phenomenon, who happens to lead a charmed life in Paris, New York and Connecticut.

Bookmarked recipes: Mussels and chorizo with or without pasta, Potato chip tortilla, Marie-Helene's apple cake

Why?
Her recipes are detailed but easy-peasy to follow because she is ultimately a home cook, not a restaurant chef. This is like a personal scrapbook of all the recipes she makes. It is impossible not to fall in love with this book.

Who?
Anyone who enjoys cooking and eating more than fussing over food.

The New York Times Essential Cookbook
Proving that a cookbook does NOT need photographs to be successful, this is about tried and true recipes from a familiar source and very familiar names--contributors like Mark Bittman, Julia Child, Marcella Hazan, David Chang, Nigella Lawson. Good stuff!

Bookmarked recipes: Marinated flank steak with asian slaw, Roasted carrot and red lentil ragout, Cranberry upside-down cake

Why?
Hat's off to Amanda Hesser for compiling a fantastic set of reader approved recipes and creating new notes that will ensure success with each recipe.

Who?
Anyone who has loved reading the New York Times food section and is looking for solid recipes to rely on.

The Sunset Cookbook
I grew up with Sunset magazine, Sunset cookbooks and a philosophy of cooking that was influenced by living in "the West." This is a huge compilation of very contemporary recipes. Sustainable seafood, recipes to make on the grill, tons of salads, Asian inspired dishes and plenty of guacamole.

Bookmarked recipes: Shiraz-soy trip-tip, Frisee, tangerine and sesame salad, Kumquat bon bons

Why?
Because we want to make the most of our bountiful produce and healthy lifestyle

Who?
I don't know if this book will appeal to those not living on the West Coast, but for anyone who is, it will seem like a natural fit.


James Beard's American Cookery
Don't you just love the word cookery? It's so old-fashioned. Sometimes old-fashioned is a good thing, especially when it means solid, classic, regional American recipes.

Bookmarked recipes: Watermelon rind pickles, Wilted dandelion salad, Blueberry cake with bourbon cream

Why?
Some recipes should not be lost. They are part of our heritage and more importantly, delectable! I have also NEVER failed with a James Beard recipe.

Who?
Anyone who appreciates the diversity of American cuisine.

India The Cookbook
The amount most of us knows about Indian cuisine is miniscule. And yet, who doesn't love Indian food? Making it at home using the best ingredients is a revelation. This book has the largest collection of Indian recipes that I have ever seen. The introductory sections on the regions of India alone is wonderful.

Bookmarked recipes: Dry cabbage in masala, Lamb in chickpea flour and curry yogurt, Coconut filled pancakes

Why?
This encyclopedia of 1000 recipes will be your go-to Indian cooking reference.

Who?
Those who love Indian food but want to experience a wider variety of fresh, tasty food than they can find in any given Indian restaurant.

Every year I fuss and fret over whether or not I should do a holiday shopping post. This year it seems people have saved more, paid off their debts and are ready to spend.

As a food writer and blogger I regularly receive unsolicited samples and review units. Some things I send back, others I give away. Not much really makes the cut. If you are one of those people who is ready to splurge, here are the items I treasure most. Buy something special for someone you love, or better yet, for yourself.


I got a variety of plates when I got married. While I love my vintage Wedgwood, I was disappointed in my everyday china from Crate & Barrel. After a couple of years it was discontinued and after 9 years my set was chipped, faded and ugly, so I got rid of it. What I replaced it with is lovely Villeroy & Boch porcelain dinnerware that I can use in the microwave, dishwasher (if only I had a dishwasher!) and at low temperatures in the oven. It is sturdy, beautiful and I love how well the two patterns mix and match. It has a classic yet contemporary style that I find very appealing. It has also been a joy to use in photography.

The patterns I have are part of the "modern toile" Audun line, Audun Promenade and Audun Fleur. On Amazon the dinner plates are $26 soup bowls are $33 or $35 depending upon which pattern you choose.


Since I have to world's worst bottom-of-the-line oven, I am a toaster oven power user! I just received the Breville SmartOven and I love it already. Why? Because it takes the place of my toaster oven AND my toaster. It is the Cadillac of toaster ovens. It's a toaster oven, that actually toasts bread perfectly every time. No other toaster oven I have owned has ever been able to accomplish that feat!

I wish it was big enough to fit my 12-cup muffin pan, but my mini-muffin pan fits in it easily. I have yet to roast a whole chicken, but because it has a convection feature, I think it will be great. It's perfect for broiling and baking casseroles. The heating elements operate independently giving you a lot more versatility not to mention energy savings. It costs about $250 and the vast majority of reviews on Amazon are overwhelmingly positive.


I have had a Vita-Mix blender. for two years and I still adore it! I use it constantly to make smoothies, blend sauces and soups and puree vegetables. It is simply the best blender I have ever owned. Insanely expensive and yet, I absolutely love it. The least expensive model is about $400.


Speaking of making the cut, these Damascus steak knives from New West KnifeWorks are the nicest steak knives I have ever seen. I have two of them and they are just a pleasure to use. They are elegant, forge-welded blades with 32 layers of Damascus steel resulting in a very fine yet sturdy edge. At $99 a piece they are definitely pricey, but something you will enjoy for years to come.


I lucked out and got a set of Bialetti Aeternum non-stick pans, which are now out of stock. But I would still recommend buying these pans separately (the set only saved you about $10). These are the best non-stick pans I've ever used and I've tried a lot. The pans are environmentally friendly, free of PFOA ( pertluorooctanoic acid) PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) and cadmium. The surface of the pans have a "nano-ceramic" coating that is a water-based coating made of titanium and suspended silicate micro-particles (the main component of glass). It resists scratches, abrasions and offers a smooth, compact and uniform surface that is very easy to clean. There is no flaking and the surface does not stain. They are attractive and the only downside is they need to be handled with care. DO NOT stack them, the coating can chip if you do. The pans cost between $20 and $40 each.

San Jose Mercury News readers will surely recognize the name Aleta Watson. Aleta is an award-winning reporter and restaurant reviewer who was on staff there for quite a while.

I'm always curious about what restaurant reviewers choose to cook at home. Thankfully Aleta has a gorgeous blog, Skillet Chronicles, that satisfies my curiosity while inspiring my own creativity. It turns out Aleta cooks the way I do and the same things that appeal to her generally appeal to me too. She is also a proponent of the joy one finds in the kitchen! Can I get an "amen"? If you enjoy my blog, I'm confident you will enjoy discovering hers too.

"The salty tang of preserved lemon in a chicken tagine. The deep savor of slow-cooked cassoulet. The sweet satisfaction of Sicilian cookies stuffed with ground figs and nuts. I cook because I�m a curious eater. I love to taste new foods, explore unfamiliar cooking techniques and share my finds.

When I was growing up, our family meals leaned heavily toward red meat, potatoes and frozen vegetables. Although my mother was a good cook, she stuck with what she knew. Not until I left home did I realize what a wide range of flavors the world had to offer.

A friend introduced me to Chinese food, Indian curries and �Joy of Cooking� and a lifelong love affair with pots and pans began. I reveled in the challenge and creativity of working with my hands in the kitchen after days toiling as a reporter and editor in Bay Area newsrooms. Trying out new recipes and feeding the results to family and friends became one of my favorite pastimes.

Even when I worked as a restaurant critic, I generally preferred cooking to eating out. The food served at most restaurants not only was disappointing but laden with salt and fat. My family ate better when we shopped for and prepared our own meals. We knew where our ingredients came from and the food was fresher, better tasting and more nutritious.

Now, I�m on a mission to help more people discover the pleasures of cooking for themselves and their families, using local ingredients in season. Everyone knows it�s good for the wallet, better for the body, and a boon for the planet. But too few people seem to realize how much fun it can be."

La Cocina is hosting a holiday gift fair where you will have a chance to try and buy lots of wonderful things from participants in their food business incubator program and other local entrepreneurs.

Some of my favorites not to miss are Clairesquares for chocolate covered crunchy "flapjack" oat bars, Kika�s Treats for chocolate covered caramelized graham crackers, Love and Hum�mus Co for delectable organic hummus, Sajen for spicy and healthy Indone�sian drinks. In addition, Marcia Gagliardi will be there signing copies of her terrific book, The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco.

In my experience, food gifts are some the most appreciated gifts of all. In this case you'll also be supporting low-income entrepreneurs in our community and helping turn them into successful business owners.

Where: Mis�sion Cul�tural Cen�ter for Latino Arts
2868 Mission Street between 24th and 25th St., San Francisco

When: Fri�day, Decem�ber 10th, 4PM � 9PM

Com�ing? RSVP on Facebook


Vendors also include: Liga Masiva � Cof�fee and Teas | Deli�cias Sal�vadore�nas � Sal�vado�ran Pas�tries | Estrellita�s Snacks � Yucca and Plan�tain Chips | Neo Cocoa � Truf�fles | Sabores del Sur � Alfa�jores and Empanadas | Onig�illy � Japan�ese Snacks | Pick-A-Peck Pick�les � Pick�les | 18 Rea�sons � Classes for Food Lovers | De La Paz � Cof�fee and Teas | End�less Sum�mer Sweets � Ket�tle Corn and Caramel Apples | En Vie Nat�u�rals � Bath and Body Prod�ucts | Kim Jensen Mosaics � Arti�san Mosaics | J. Telford Tex�tiles � Dec�o�ra�tive Tex�tiles | Meat�pa�per � Mag�a�zines and Posters | Mimi McCurry�s � Chimichurri | Mix�coatl � Mex�i�can Arti�san Crafts | Rub�ber Ducky Soap Co � Bath and Body Prod�ucts | Spiffy Mutts � Pet Fash�ion | Stone�house Olive Oil � Olive Oils | Sweets Col�lec�tion � Mex�i�can Gel�latins | 3 Fish Stu�dios � Art Prints | Urban Bazaar � Kitchen�wares | Yvonne�s South�ern Sweets � Pra�lines and Cook�ies | Mex�ico by Hand � Mex�i�can Kitchen�wars and Crafts | House Kom�bucha � Kom�bucha | and more�

I hope to see you there!

Wisconsin is not just dairy country, but cheese country. In fact 90% of the milk Wisconsin produces goes into cheese. The state took home more awards than any other at this years American Cheese Society conference. License plates in Wisconsin don't really say "Eat Cheese or Die" but they might as well!

While I was a guest on a recent tour of Wisconsin, I did spend my own cold hard cash to buy cheese from some of my favorite cheesemakers. Here are just a few of those I met, and a rundown of what I bought from them.


I met Tony Hook of Hook's Cheese at the Dane Country Farmer's Market. Tony has a sparkle in his eye and gave me a Cheshire cat grin when I asked too many nosy questions about how he makes his cheese. He makes an amazing number of very fine aged cheddar and blue cheeses. I adore his washed rind Tilston Point Blue, named after Stilton. It's rich and creamy and has a terrific bite. The texture is crumbly but it can be sliced. I also think it is a tremendous value. Of course I paid a pittance at the farmer's market but even in stores it is very reasonably priced.


After meeting Willi Lehner of Bleu Mont Dairy, seeing his beautiful caves and tasting his cheeses, I couldn't wait to bring some of his cheese home to share. Willi, who has dual American and Swiss citizenship, learned to make cheese in Switzerland, where his parents are from. He is creative in his approach, and deeply committed to environmental sustainability, but it is his focus on quality that struck me the most. He is more concerned about making the best possible cheese he can, than about making the most cheese or the most money. He makes his cheese from some of the finest milk available, straight from the cows at Uplands. He makes two similar cheeses, Alpine Renegade and a bandaged cheddar. The cheddar is my favorite because it has such depth, with lots of tang and toasty flavor. It's pricey, but worth every penny.


I am sure Brenda Jensen's sheep adore her. She is so gentle and friendly and yet passionate about making cheese and running Hidden Springs Farm and dairy in a humane and sustainable manner. Her soft sheep's milk cheese, Driftless, tastes a bit like ricotta, only better. Her latest cheese, Meadow Melody is a combination of cow and sheep's milk cheese making it more affordable but just as delicious as her other cheeses. It's semi-firm, grassy and has notes of brown butter.

I also purchased cheese from another award-winning cheesemaker who unfortunately I didn't get a chance to meet this time around. Marieke Penterman of Hollands Family Cheese is a Wisconsin dairy farmer who emigrated here from the Netherlands in 2002. She makes a fantastic gouda, that is aged over 18 months. While I love gouda melted on toast, this cheese is too precious to use for cooking. A thin slice and a piece of apple is heavenly.

You might think I only met "artisanal" cheesemakers but that's not the case. I went to three very modern cheesemaking facilities, including Emmi Roth Kase. At home I buy their buttermilk blue and am now smitten with their smoky Moody Blue. While their Swiss machinery was state of the art, what struck me was how much was still being done by hand.

It's important to note that with cheese you are dealing with a living product and so it is not always the same. There is only so much you can control. A sample of every wheel of cheese is tasted in order to determine which rounds will be suitable for aging and for how long. Yes, there are timers and thermometers, but there are also knowledgeable cheesemakers involved in every step of the process. Even in the most modern "factory" settings cheesemakers are still artisans as far as I'm concerned, doing much by hand and tasting as they go.

My sincere thanks to the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board for inviting me on their wonderful Fall tour!

Since my last post I've been to Miami where I snacked on a fabulous medianoche sandwich. I made appetizers and Emily Luchetti's Cranberry Pecan Pumpkin Upside Down Cake for Thanksgiving and am now heading off again, this time to Montreal for the weekend.

Over on the Frommer's website, on the Amy & Amy Between Bites blog you'll find a post that features an interview with Dorie Greenspan. I got her thoughts on cooking at home and in Paris and bunch of great recommendations plus a recipe. You'll also find an interview with Vanessa Barrington where she shares tips for making food to take when you travel, plus a recipe from her book, DIY Delicious.

On the Epicurious blog, EpiLog are posts on intriguing flavor combinations. Read about the combination of Peppermint & Mocha, Pecans & Pumpkin Pie Spice, including a recipe for roasted pumpkin pie spice pecans, Cranberries & Camembert, and a post on Savory Oatmeal ideas.

Next week I hope to have some more cookbook recommendations, and a new recipe. I've been working on a number of recipes for clients and as soon as those go online I will let you know.

While Irvin Lin is a relative newcomer to food blogging, having launched Eat the Love earlier this year, he has quickly been embraced by bakers, cooks and food lovers. He's extremely talented as a baker, having won various competitions, including the Food Wars:Pie or Die, also this year. Lin does it all with a sense of joy and humor that is positively delicious.

"There is something slightly schizophrenic about being a home baker.

It�s a soothing zen-like solitary experience where precision measurements are needed to ensure a perfect end result. It�s a bit magical, when you put that batter or dough into the oven, at the correct temperature, and it comes out a baked good, something worthy of sharing with the people you love. Baking may be a lot of science (as well as a lot of art � don�t let anyone tell you any differently) but it�s also a magic that everyone can access. Few things in life create the warm happy feeling I get when I smell something baking in the oven.

But baking is also an act of social engagement, as all my baked goods are meant to be shared with friends, family and loved ones. I enjoy cooking, but to me, cooking is something I do to survive. Everyone needs to eat, and cooking is one of the ways that I provide sustenance to my body. But baking�baking is about pleasure. It�s about providing an experience to not only for yourself but for others as well. Cooking is a necessary. It�s a need. Baking is special. It�s a want.

I bake because I love to give joy to others. I love to watch other people eat. I love to watch their reactions when they take a bite of pie that I�ve made, or break off a piece of cookie and put it in their mouth. I love watching their eyes light up as they see the dessert placed in front of them. I love to see their eye roll to the back of their head as they savor that rich butter and sugar that I use in my sweet baked goods. I love hearing about how a specific dessert reminds them of their trip to France, or their wedding day, or of their childhood kitchen. I love talking to them about desserts and baked goods, because inevitably, every single person has a story about their favorite cookie, their favorite cake, and/or their favorite pie.

It is not everyday that people eat desserts. However, every time someone bakes, a normal occasion is turned into a special occasion. I strive to have as many special occasions as possible. I bake because baking is a way to connect with others. Baking is a joy. And we all need a little more joy in our lives."

Today's Special opens up in theaters around the US tomorrow. I got a chance to see a preview of it a few months ago at the International Food Blogger Conference and found it to be utterly charming, funny, and a bit of a tearjerker at times. You may recognize the lead actor Aasif Mandvi from the Daily Show with Jon Stewart. You will certainly recognize cookbook author and actress, Madhur Jaffrey. She's great in the role of the mother of the central character, a chef in the midst of professional and personal crises.

I don't want to give away too many of the details, but the movie is about a chef, Samir, who impulsively quits his job, is pressed into service at his family's restaurant, finds his cooking mojo and of course, the approach to food is really an approach to life. I was disappointed that the filmmaker did not accept Madhur Jaffrey's offer to help with the food scenes, because some of them lack authenticity. It's a shame, because in every other way this film is such a pleasure.

The story is completely predictable and formulaic, but with a film this enjoyable, who cares? Sure, it includes many cliches of dating and family strife but somehow there is a sweetness that tugs at your heartstrings anyway. The supporting cast of veteran Indian actors are just a joy to watch, especially Naseeruddin Shah, who was in Monsoon Wedding. You don't have to be Indian to appreciate the culture clashes and modern drama that the lead character finds himself in; the story has a universal appeal. Overall it is sweet, romantic, sentimental and will make you want to go out for Indian food, so plan accordingly.

Campton Place the restaurant at Campton Place Taj Hotel San Francisco has an illustrious history. Many celebrated chefs have passed through the kitchen including Laurent Manrique, Jan Birnbaum, Bradley Ogden, Daniel Humm, Todd Humphries and Peter Rudolph. The restaurant added an Indian flair to the menu when the Taj took over the hotel and Executive Chef Sri Gopinathan took the helm. The restaurant has flown a bit under the radar for the last few years, but now it's back in the spotlight. Michelin just awarded Campton Place a star in their 2011 guide.

Chef Sri Gopinathan hails from Southern India, trained at the CIA Hyde Park and apprenticed in the kitchen of Raymond Blanc and Gary Jones at the famed Le Manoir aux Quat� Saisons, in Oxford, England, a Michelin 2 star restaurant.
Since Campton Place is sure to be on the list for local and visiting foodies, I checked in with the chef to learn more about him and his cooking.

How would you describe your food?My style of cooking is French California with a subtle Spice Route
influence.

What is your signature dish or dishes?Most of my dishes have my signature-  a subtle use of spices- but I have an emotional attachment to one dish in particular.  It is butter poached lobster with basmati crisp, a coconut curry sauce and cilantro. This preparation reminds me of home; it has typical southern Indian flavor but a French cooking technique.

How has your cooking been influenced by San Francisco and California?I love the produce available here-  really some of the best produce in the world is from here!  Also there is a really great group of chefs in the Bay Area and the area offers a wonderful, and challenging, culinary platform for me.  The area is full of amazing farmers, artisans in baking and cheese-making, vintners� and the list goes on and on of people who are very influencing, inspiring and motivating.

What are your greatest sources of culinary inspiration?This is really simple:  I�m inspired by fresh, seasonal produce�and there�s nothing like what is grown here in Northern California.  And secondly, my 90-year old grandmother�s cooking.

What do you like most about living in the Bay Area?I�ve never lived in a part of the world that has so many people interested in food and wine.  It�s a dynamic influence on me�really everyone is so passionate about what they literally bring to the table.

What are your 3 favorite Bay Area restaurants?Oh, and now a hard question to answer!  SPQR, Yank Sing and, of course, The French Laundry.

Thanks chef!

Vegetarians, avert your eyes, now! This year there are several cookbooks dedicated to cooking meat. If you are like me, you are eating less meat, but being more particular about what you consume. I no longer buy meat at the supermarket. I am too haunted by images of factory farming. But I am still eating meat and while it makes up less of the plate, the few days a week I do cook it, I want it to be as deliciously satisfying as possible. Each of the following books are written by James Beard award-winners who know their stuff. Their recipes work, their writing is clear and their knowledge unassailable.

James Peterson is an experienced cooking teacher, he not only knows how to cook, but knows how to explain it clearly to just about anyone. Meat, A Kitchen Education is his latest book. All kinds of cooking methods are covered in it and it's worth pointing out his book includes chicken, turkey and fowl. Step-by-step photos show how to carve, make dishes like salt pork and veal chops in papillote. The book focuses on classic dishes like Irish Stew, and Beef Wellington but also has more creative ones such as Oxtail Stew with Grapes, and Mostarda di Cremona. Particularly helpful are illustrations that show where each cut comes from on the animal. The book has 175 recipes.

The most massive tome out this season is Good Meat, subtitled the complete guide to sourcing and cooking sustainable meat, by Deborah Krasner. If you are concerned about sustainability, this is your book. It answers the questions you may have about grass-fed beef, Halal and Kosher meat, the flavor of pastured meat, "pink veal" and other modern meat issues that are not necessarily covered in other books. It is lovingly written, I don't know how else to describe it. The photos are stunning of both animals and dishes. There are recipes for using offal, pheasant, and pig's tail, in addition to much more accessible cuts and types of meat. Recipes I can't wait to try include Lamb Sausage, Eggplant and Orzo Salad, Pork Loin Chops with Ruby Port, Prunes, Cinnamon, Turmeric and Ginger and Beef Stew with Vermouth, Yam, and Mint (it included pomegranate molasses). The book has over 200 recipes.

The smallest format book is Falling Off the Bone by Jean Anderson. This is a straight-forward recipe book. Not all the recipes use meat on the bone, but all are for succulent style dishes that will make you swoon. It's a book of comfort food, plain and simple. It includes and braises, soups and stews. There are old fashioned dishes like Country-fried Steak and more out of the ordinary dishes like Aegean Lamb and Fennel Stew, Far East Spareribs on Sesame Sauerkraut and Danish Fricadeller in Onion Sauce. Unlike the other books, this one includes just beef, pork, lamb and veal, and no poultry or game. The book has 163 recipes.

Last year I had the pleasure of having breakfast with Michael Symon at a demo that he did at Williams-Sonoma. From recipes in his cookbook, Michael Symon's Live to Cook, he made creamy scrambled eggs with goat cheese, potato pancakes and of course, plenty of bacon. Michael Symon loves bacon, it features prominently in many of his recipes.

The next best thing to eating Michael Symon's food, is seeing him cook, so you can replicate his recipes at home. Right now you can see a number of videos with Michael Symon at EatWisconsinCheese.com, where he demonstrates some very interesting techniques. For example, he makes gnocchi that is cooked in a pan, with no need to parboil.

I'm always looking for more salad recipes and I like his version with arugula, apples, radishes and Wisconsin blue cheese. Symon's salad is a side dish, but with just a couple more additions, it actually makes a great main dish. To the salad I added crunchy jicama, creamy avocado, toasted walnuts and in honor of Symon, smoky bacon. The result is a very substantial "Cobb" style entree salad, with rows of seasonal ingredients. I'm not going to lie to you, while not hard to make, this salad does take a fair amount of time to prepare, but it is absolutely worth it. Even the least enthusiastic salad eater will love it.

Winter Cobb Salad
Serves 4, as a main dish

Ingredients

1 shallot, minced, about a tablespoon
3 Tablespoons Champagne vinegar
1 Tablespoon honey
1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup radish slices
1 Granny Smith apples, cored and diced
1 avocado, peeled, pitted and diced
1 cup jicama, peeled and diced
6 cups arugula
1 cup Black River blue cheese, crumbled (Buttermilk blue would be good too)
1 cup walnuts, chopped and toasted
6 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled (optional)

Instructions

Dressing
Place shallots and large pinch of kosher salt in mixing bowl. Add vinegar, honey and mustard. Mix. Slowly whisk in olive oil. Taste for seasoning then put in a small pitcher or ramekin for serving.

Salad
Make a bed of arugula on a large serving platter. Place the radishes, apples, avocado, jicama, blue cheese, walnuts and bacon on top of the salad in rows. Serve with the dressing on the side. Alternatively you can create individual servings of the salad if you prefer.

Enjoy!

If you are a food blogger or an aspiring food writer, there is a good chance you know Dianne Jacob, author of Will Write for Food: The Complete Guide to Writing Cookbooks, Blogs, Reviews, Memoir, and More, now in it's second edition. She's an editor, a writer, a teacher, a cook and a coach. She has helped countless people get book deals and polished their writing. After meeting her at a book signing years ago, we've gotten to be friends and I've been lucky enough to share the stage with her at various conferences.

In addition to Will Write for Food she co-wrote Grilled Pizzas and Piadinas, and past work experience includes both newspaper and magazine editing. Her popular and provocative blog addresses food writing and blogging issues, but it doesn't answer the question--why does Dianne cook? So, I'm happy to give her that opportunity here.

"I�m a storyteller first, not a chef. As far as cooking goes, I�m just an enthusiastic home cook who makes food in a small kitchen with no Viking range, no Sub-Zero refrigerator, and without the countertop appliances I covet, such as a panini maker, rice cooker or slow cooker.

I started cooking as a teenager in high school. My mother got a job working evenings so she wasn�t home to make dinner for my dad, sister and me. She was an amazing ethnic cook but would not allow me in the kitchen because she said doing so would ruin the food. As the eldest daughter I was suddenly in charge of dinner and on my own, leafing through the Wednesday food section of the Vancouver Sun because we had no cookbooks.

That year I made dinner dishes foreign to our family, like red peppers stuffed with rice (tasteless), battered fried chicken (still bloody) and a frozen coffee dessert where I used coffee grounds instead of the specified amount of brewed coffee (inedible). My dad pretended he didn�t notice on all occasions, but was particularly miffed to not be served meat at every meal.

So began my culinary adventure. It has morphed over the years according to fads (crazy about Moroccan food currently), whatever I�m reading (usually from a stack of cookbooks next to my bed), and interest in my parents� heritage cooking (Iraqi and Indian Jewish cuisine.)

I take inspiration from the farmer�s market, because I aspire to a mostly plant-based diet.
I love seeking out whatever�s in season, including produce I don�t know much about. It was only a few years ago that I discovered greens, and now they are common in my refrigerator. Other times I find produce that reminds me of home. My mother boiled fresh fava beans in salted water. I began with that simple preparation, but now I mash them with olive oil, fresh thyme and garlic, and spread the green paste on little toasts.

Today I cook because I prefer my own food. I didn�t think I would ever say that, because outside my house is much tastier and more complicated cooking, available for purchase. But my food is generally healthier than what�s served in restaurants, so on a daily basis, it�s better for me. And I like the transition from long hours at my desk to the kitchen, using muscle memory instead of my brain.

As a food writer, I cook to learn new techniques and to understand recipes, particularly when I am testing them for publication. Sometimes I cook to try new kinds of foods. I just bought my first bag of almond meal and have only made one baked item with it, a sensational apricot tart on the cover of Farmer's Market Desserts. I served it to my book group at the height of summer. That reminds me of another reason why I cook: to pamper people I adore.

My husband and I are both home during the day and we eat our meals together. I find it difficult get to the store sometimes � let alone restaurants -- so we are dependent on what I make. Right now I don�t have much other than raw produce waiting for me in the fridge, so I�d better get to work."

There are three things I feel are necessary when it comes to afternoon tea and the beautiful Laurel Court restaurant at the Fairmont Hotel San Francisco atop Nob Hill excels at each. The first is the tea itself. It should be very high quality. It should be loose leaf, not served from tea bags! The service should be attentive and never rushed because tea is meant to be leisurely and relaxed. Finally there should be abundant food. It's funny how the meal is named after a beverage but it often features three separate courses of food. Generally served on tiered trays, there are finger sandwiches, scones with cream and finally pastries, often petit fours.

The Laurel Court is a posh room under three domes, decorated with painted murals, columns, and surrounded by cozy loveseats. The room was restored in 2000, and it's a treat just to spend time there, away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Because afternoon tea is a bit of a luxury (at the Laurel Court it is $36) the food should be a lavish spread and at the Laurel Court it certainly is. In addition to tea of your choice, you will enjoy a little rolled smoked salmon and chive cream cheese pinwheel on rye bread, Dungeness crab and mango salad on a corn muffin, open-faced cucumber and goat cheese sandwich with sundried tomato tapenade on black walnut bread and perhaps my favorite, Five-spice beef tenderloin and lady apple slaw on black olive baguette. All the sandwiches are fresh and delicious.

A scone with currants is served with cream, lemon curd and a quince pear compote. If you need a smidgen more of anything the waiters are there in an instant to oblige. By the time you get to the petit fours you might only be able to nibble on one or two and need to take the rest home. The chocolate and hazelnut French macaron is particularly good. The little cheesecake and chocolate cup of coffee mousse, are each a bit rich, and the madeleines perfect for dunking in tea. I also recommend the mini fruit tarts which are as tasty as they are pretty. My advice? Go with someone you want to catch up with and enjoy!

I'm getting ready to hit the road again, with a couple of trips in November. First I'll be in Napa for the Worlds of Flavor: Japan conference then I'll be going on my first cruise and adding on a couple of days in Miami. The photo above is from my most recent trip to Wisconsin.

If you enjoyed my post here on Switzerland, check out my longer Frommer's report on Appenzell, a lovely region not far from Zurich. I've shared a few culinary highlights of the region, it's definitely worth a visit.

On Epicurious, my most recent posts are about sweet piquante peppers, you might know them as peppadews. There's another post with an updated list of my favorite foodie newsletters, all are free and good reads. I explored the flavor combination of zucchini, thyme and lemon. The comments on my post were great. I loved the suggestion to make a lemon pound cake with lemon and thyme sugar glaze.

Next week on Cooking with Amy you'll find another post in the series "Why do YOU cook?" as well as a review of afternoon tea at a fancy hotel on Nob Hill.