Have you ever noticed how the perfect fruit demands your attention? A run of the mill apple or banana is fine, benign even. But really spectacular fruit grabs you and doesn't let go. I hope everyone has the amazing experience of fresh, intensely flavored, sensual and almost overwhelming experience some day that Chip Brantley had when he first tasted a pluot. It changed his life. No kidding. The Perfect Fruit is his personal and journalistic investigation of this relatively recent stone fruit.

Barely into the first chapter I found myself inexplicably drawn to a local farmers market where I found the aptly named "flavor king." You have to admit, it is an awfully beautiful looking fruit. It tasted even better. Sweet, tangy, juicy, floral and complex.



The season for pluots is pretty much now over, but if you want to read a book about a most unlikely subject that will draw you in, much like a piece of perfect fruit, I wholeheartedly recommend The Perfect Fruit. Brantley covers the breeding, the marketing and flavor of the fruit. The book is well-written, with a strong attention to detail, it covers much of the business related to stone fruit but also the passion that drives fruit breeders to keep working on new hybrids all the time.

I was a bit skeptical about a whole book on pluots. But it's a book filled with interesting characters, almost dynastic families and the forces of nature. I found it fascinating, I hope you will too.

Guy Prince is a man with focus. He grills and he smokes and coaxes the best out of food in his own unmistakeable way. Who else would serve squares of bacon as an appetizer at a picnic? There is no mistaking the man, his food or his writing. He's also a true gentleman who never passes up the opportunity to help anyone with their smoking, grilling or meaty dilemmas. His blog is Meathenge and his stunning carnivorous photos will make you insanely hungry.

"Excellent question. For me, when I was a lot younger I found that I could cook better tasting food at home. And since I live and grew up in California, I could sure as hell out grill or out smoke any my local BBQ joints. The deal was sealed."

Last week I got a sneak peek at the Hodo Soy Beanery factory in Oakland. I learned how tofu, soy milk and yuba (tofu skin) is made and my ability to eat store bought tofu was ruined forever.

I am not a tofu hater. I like it. I don't find it bland, but mild, and I love the way it picks up the flavor of whatever else is in the pot or pan. I even like the Japanese style of serving cold cubes of tofu topped with a little grated ginger, soy sauce and scallions. Hodo Soy founder Minh Tsai likes tofu too. But he missed the fresh tofu he ate in Vietnam where he grew up. He experimented making it and his creations were a big success. Today he sells to high end restaurants like Greens, Slanted Door and Coi. Tsai explained at first restaurants used his products for staff meals but quickly it migrated on to menus. Soon his tofu will be at retail outlets and in December you can visit the factory and see it being made too.

It's not a very complicated process, though much of the process is done by hand. Organic non-genetically modified soybeans grown in the US are soaked 6-8 hours, then ground, water is added, they are cooked by steam injection and filtered. The soy milk can be drank fresh, used to make yuba, a most delicate and tender tofu skin (nothing like the kind that is rehydrated) and also used to make tofu. Calcium sulfate is used to coagulate the soy milk and turn it into tofu, and then it is pressed and cut into chunks.

Fresh tofu is a lot like fresh mozzarella. It tastes very different and much better when it is super fresh. The texture is better and so is the flavor. Yes, flavor. Fresh tofu and soy milk have unbelievable creamy, nutty, slightly bean-y flavor. It is delicious with sweet or savory preparations. You just have to try it to believe it. I can see using the sheets of yuba like crepes, as noodles, and stir fried. "Ho" means good in Chinese and "Do" means bean. Good bean. Really.

Have you noticed that Halloween has become a major commercial holiday? I'd complain except that I am completely beguiled by the marvelous creations in the October edition of Martha Stewart Living magazine. I actually got a sneak peek at the photos for this issue when I was in New York last year. That chocolate cake with the green snake has been haunting me ever since!

If I need one more thing to put me in the Halloween spirit it's this, Michael Recchiuti's adorable Jack o'Lantern decorated Halloween motif chocolates. They are filled with burnt caramel, one of the most popular flavors. A box of eight chocolate confections is $19. Any excuse is just fine to indulge in Recchiuti chocolates and these little sweets are more cute than creepy. But treat yourself soon, they are available only until October 31.

Burnt caramel is something Michael Recchiuti clearly enjoys playing with, it ends up as a sauce, coating nuts, and even in ice cream. It really is the flavor of Fall as far as I'm concerned, a little bitter, a little sweet and whole lot delicious.

In a very short time Susan of the blog Food Blogga has established herself in the food blogging constellation. From the very beginning she reached out to her readers and other bloggers which is how I got to know her. Her breezy honest writing style and solid recipe writing skills has gained her a following not just on her blog but at NPR where she writes for Kitchen Window. Susan doesn't just share recipes but also family stories. Italian American to the core, her perspective spans her youth in New England and current life in San Diego. Next year, look forward to seeing not just one, but two cookbooks she is writing for Quirk Books.

"Why do I cook? I could say because I�m endlessly fascinated with San Diego�s local produce (which I am), or because I like to eat healthfully (which I do). But the real reason I cook, the reason I�m drawn to the kitchen day after day is because it�s where I�m the happiest. I have my mom to thank for that.

I grew up in an Italian-American family in Rhode Island, so food was at the epi-center of our lives. In addition to her many hugs, kisses, and cheek pinches, my mom used cooking as a way to express her love for those around her. Making someone�s favorite dish � my stuffed artichokes or my dad�s pineapple upside-down cake � was her way of telling us that we were special.

Like my mom, I find cooking comforting; I get pleasure out of feeding others; and I see cooking as a way to keep family traditions alive. My husband and I have lived away from home for over twelve years now, and it has been cooking, that no matter how far away we were, always made us feel like we were home."

This brussels sprout salad recipe is perfect for lovers and haters of the little cabbage-looking sprout. The flavor is so mild, that it barely has any cabbage flavor. Because the brussels sprouts are shredded, guests might not even know they are the basis for the dish. Sweet apples and toasted nuts add complexity and crunch. It's a nice balance of sweet, salty, crunchy, tangy with just a touch of richness from the walnuts and the oil.

Brussels sprout slaw is yet another recipe that was created out of "whatever was in the house." I will admit, laziness that keeps me from going to the store in turn inspires new recipes on a regular basis. In this case I had one apple and a bag of brussels sprouts. Back from a weekend out of town, I had no desire to go shopping. My original plan was to roast or saute them, but raw was a refreshing change from the expected. You could probably slice the brussels sprouts very thinly with a knife, but it's much easier to do in a food processor or with a mandolin. You do have a mandolin, right? Cheap Japanese ones are fine, just watch your fingers!

I've seen a number of brussels sprout salads, but very few of them are raw. I hope you will try a raw brussels sprout salad, mine or one of the others listed below. They are delicious and make a great side dish. I served mine as a side to spaghetti alla carbonara but it would go with any kind of roasted meat or chicken, fish, you-name-it. As with all recipes, adjust the seasonings to your taste.

Brussels Sprout Slaw with Apples and Walnuts
Serves 4 -6

Ingredients

1/2 lb brussels sprouts
1 green apple
2 green onions, white and pale green part only
2 Tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil (or walnut oil)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon Dijon style mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup walnuts, chopped and toasted

Instructions

Shred the brussels sprouts using a mandolin or shredding blade in a food processor. Thinly slice the apple, then cut each slice into matchsticks. Thinly slice the green onions and toss with the shredded brussels sprouts and apple pieces. In a small bowl combine the cider vinegar, olive oil, salt and Dijon mustard. Toss the dressing with the salad, season with freshly ground pepper to taste and gently add the toasted walnuts. Allow to rest a room temperature for at least 20 minutes before serving.

Enjoy!

More Brussels Sprouts Salads & Slaws

Spicy Brussels Sprouts Salad with Almonds and Mint, from Molly Watson at About.com Local Foods
Shaved Brussels Sprouts Salad with Fresh Walnuts and Pecorino, from Gourmet
Shredded Brussels Sprouts with Pecans and Mustard Seeds, from Whole Living/Martha Stewart
Brussels Sprouts Salad, from 101 Cookbooks
Stolen Salad, from The Food Section
Raw Brussels Sprouts Salad with Almonds and Parmesan, from Oprah magazine

I am definitely going through the five stages of grief. I could not believe the news on Monday that Gourmet was closing--denial. I quickly became angry. How dare they! Don't they know how important that magazine is? Bargaining came next. Why didn't they sell the magazine? Go to quarterly issues? Charge more for subscriptions? I wanted to find any way possible to save it.

Right now I'm firmly in depression. I'm just so sad to see a magazine that provoked, inspired, educated and entertained for so long go away. It's not the end of the world, but it feels devastating, as if an old dear friend has slipped away without even a chance to say goodbye. I didn't always agree with the editorial or art direction but I always appreciated it and I never dreamed it would disappear. Visiting the Gourmet offices last year and the test kitchens was an experience I will treasure forever. It made me appreciate all that went into the magazine even more than I had before. At some point I will make a list of all my favorite recipes that I have used over the years. Fortunately they will live on at Epicurious.

I think a lot of the editorials and pundits have really gotten it wrong when it comes to the demise of Gourmet. Anyone who actually read the magazine knew it wasn't just for the cultural elite, it dealt with cultural and political issues having to do with food. And it wasn't the internet that killed the magazine or even a change in readers, but a change in the economy, a change I want to believe is temporary.

I did like the post in Salon very much and an opinion piece in the Christian Science Monitor. I also liked the post in Faster Times and this blog post at Wasabimon. I hope you will enjoy them too. Finally Julie of a Mingling of Tastes is planning a celebration of Gourmet online. If I can get to the fifth stage, acceptance, perhaps I will be able to participate. For now, I'm just too sad.

I got a chance to try "VIA Ready Brew" coffee last week, and perhaps you tried it too over the weekend when Starbucks was offering taste tests in their stores*. It was the best instant coffee I've ever tasted, and it was certainly the most expensive instant coffee I ever tasted, at about $1 per serving. VIA is being sold in a 12 pack for $9.95 and a 3 pack for $2.95. Starbucks doesn't want you to stop drinking their fresh brewed coffee, they want you to take VIA everywhere you can't get their fresh brewed coffee. For people who drink good coffee everyday, this might be an acceptable option when camping, traveling, or for making iced coffee in a hurry, since it dissolves in hot or cold water.

The story behind Starbucks VIA instant coffee is interesting. The late Don Valencia was a cell biologist who developed a technique for freeze-drying cells for examination under the microscope. In the early 1990's Starbucks hired him to head up research and development. His research led to creation of a coffee extract used in many products including bottled drinks and ice cream. It also led to the patent-pending process for making a new kind of instant coffee with more of the aroma, flavor and body of fresh brewed coffee.

I have a confession to make. I'm not really a coffee drinker. I drink it when I'm in Italy, otherwise, not so much. But I do love the flavor of coffee in baked goods, stews, chili, ice cream, you name it. I have a bottle of espresso powder I keep in the fridge for cooking purposes, but even I can tell that instant is not the same as fresh brewed coffee. Since I am not a regular coffee drinker, I will probably be using my samples primarily for cooking.

I have 10 each 3 packs of Columbia and Italian Roast, both are made from 100% arabica beans, ethically sourced. The Columbia is described as "rich and smooth" the Italian "big, bold and full-bodied." To win a sample, leave a comment with any thoughts you have about coffee, a recipe idea, favorite blend, how you might use it, whatever you like. I will choose 10 winners at random who will receive a 3 pack of each variety. You must have a valid email address and US mailing address since I am paying to mail these out. You can also use your sample to inspire an entry in the Starbucks VIA contest with prizes ranging from free coffee to roundtrip airline tickets or a $2,500 Williams-Sonoma gift card. Good luck!

* Today, Monday October 5th, is the last day of the taste test to try VIA for free at Starbucks stores. They will even give you a free cup of brewed coffee for your time.

GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED, THANKS FOR YOUR COMMENTS

I love the idea of 18 Reasons. It's space where people can connect with artists, food producers and learn about food. I keep eyeing butchering classes, but there are also coffee roasting classes, cheese and beer pairing classes, the lineup changes all the time with many intriguing options. If you plan on attending often, you'll want to become a member because you get a stack of gift cards to Mission favorites like Bi-Rite Creamery and Tartine Bakery in addition to discounts on everything they do.

Tonight for a mere donation of $10 (or $5 for members) you can taste McQuade's Celtic Chutney with various cheeses, paired with riesling. I always say Alison's chutney is for chutney haters because it is nothing like the glop you get at the supermarket. It's fresh chunky and always with a hit of spice and tang. Current tongue tingling varieties include Plum & Black Pepper, Fig & Ginger, Habanero, and Pineapple Red Chili.

I met Alison years ago and interviewed her for KQED's Bay Area Bites and later wrote about her killer Habanero chutney. She has a great story and her chutney is addictive.

McQuade's Celtic Chutney Tasting @ 18 Reasons
Oct 1, 2009 from 7pm � 9pm
593 Guerrero St
San Francisco