Christmas, Italian Style



Italians really know how to celebrate Christmas, called Natale in Italian. It's not about tacky decorations or shopping frenzy, if there is any excess, it's of delicious food, well wishes and love for family. The traditional celebration of "La Befana" for the epiphany, Christmas eve midnight mass and multi course meals with lots of special dishes are all wonderful, but it's the "fare gli auguri" that I appreciate most about Natale. 

Like so many concepts in Italian auguri which is translated as "best wishes" is a multilayered and complex concept and almost impossible to fully translate into English, and it has significant religious and moral dimension. And I promise if you spend time with Italians around the holidays,  you will experience it. My friend Valeria describes it much better than I possibly could. 

"Currently auguri is used for every good wish, from a birthday to a degree to a wedding. But I think that Christmas "auguri" are special because it is the end of the year and we all pause to take a look at the year passed and start thinking about the next one, so it is a time for reflection and balance. We usually are grateful for the good things we have and wish to improve the not so good ones, so auguri is a wish to improve and do better, but it is not referred to material wealth alone, it is in general a wish for improvement and happiness." 

Really, what could be better than that? But it has to be experienced. Short of going to Italy for the holiday, I encourage you to attend some of the Italian events in the Bay Area where you can enjoy a bit of this very Italian, true spirit of Christmas.


Mercato di Natale 
December 7 & 8 from 10 am - 6 pm at Fort Mason 
Germans aren't the only ones with Christmas markets! This Italian Christmas market takes place this Saturday and Sunday December 7 & 8 from 10 am - 6 pm at the Museo Italo-Americano at Fort Mason Center Building C. There will be artisanal Italian foods, handmade jewelry, accessories, craft items and more. I hope to see you there! 


Festa dei Dolci Italiani 
December 12th, 7 pm at Fort Mason tickets $35
This annual holiday event at the Museo Italo Americano is hosted by the Museo Auxiliary. Wine, prosecco, cheese and fabulous sweet and savory treats prepared by Auxiliary members will be served. RSVP to 415.673.2200 or email for an invitation. 



An Italian Holiday Dinner  
December 19th, 6:30 pm at Cavallo Point tickets $95
Learn to make Casunziei all'Ampezzana (red beet tortelli with brown butter and poppy seeds)
Tagliatelle al Cacao con Speck e Panna (cocoa tagliatelle with smoked ham and cream) and Lasagna alla Bolognese (classic bolognese lasagna)

I highly recommend Viola Buitoni's classes. I can't imagine a better Christmas present for yourself or someone you love. I finally got to take one and it was even better than I could have imagined. Viola is from a family famous in Italy and the world for both pasta (yes, that Buitoni) and Perugina chocolates. While the family no longer runs either of those companies, Viola's firsthand knowledge and her warm and encouraging manner will inspire you to tackle any Italian cooking project with confidence. Her classes virtually always sell out, so sign up for updates from her blog so you will know as soon as classes are announced.  Her pasta and polenta classes in January still have a few spaces at 18 Reasons (check the schedule for more details). 


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Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars Recipe & $100 Giveaway!




November means the arrival of cooler weather, and the beginning of the holiday season. Cranberries play a starring role in holiday fare, in part because their season is so fleeting. But raspberries, which grow practically year round here in California make for attractive co-stars (check out their availability on the Driscoll's calendar). With this in mind, I set out to make a jam bar that would highlight both fresh berries.

Tangy and buttery my Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars are the result of a happy accident because I let the food processor run a little too long. Instead of chopping the nuts, I pulsed the almonds along with the sugar until they were completely pulverized. Oops! But all is well that ends well. Perhaps jam bars are popular because they are hard to mess up? 

Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars would be perfect for a holiday cookie party or to give as a gift. The bottom of the bars is basically almond shortbread and the filling is a very lightly sweetened combination of the fresh cranberries and raspberries. The organic raspberries I used were grown in the US and provided courtesy of Driscoll's. They balanced out the strong sour flavor of the fresh cranberries. 

Driscoll's offers lots of recipes for using berries and a system for identifying where berries were grown. Look for the code on the bottom of the clam shell package and enter the number at mydriscolls.com. Now through December 31st Driscoll's is running a Made with Love holiday sweepstakes where you can win a bright red Kitchenaid stand mixer and berries for a year  or berries for a year. 

I am also offering one lucky reader $100 in Driscoll's coupons to use on berries all year long! Simply leave a comment telling me your favorite berry idea for the holidays and I will choose a winner on December 10th. One entry per person and you must leave your email address and have a US mailing address to win. Only I will see your email address. 

Cran Raspberry Crumb Bars
Makes 25 bar cookies

Ingredients

Dough
1 cup blanched almonds (whole, sliced or slivered)
1 cup sugar
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon almond extract 
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour


Filling
1 cup cranberries
6 ounce Driscoll's fresh raspberries
1/4 cup sugar

Instructions 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Chop the cranberries or pulse them about 20 times in a food processor. Combine the cranberries, raspberries and sugar in a small saucepan and gently cook for 5 minutes, mashing the berries with a wooden spoon or spatula. Set aside and let cool.

Line a 9-inch square baking pan with parchment paper, extending it over the edges. 

Pulse the almonds and sugar in a food processor. Transfer sugar mixture to a large mixing bowl. Cream the sugar and nut mixture with the butter until creamy. Mix in the egg and almond extract. Add the flour and stir until a crumbly dough forms.  Reserve 1 1/2 cups of the dough; set aside.

Press rest of the dough on bottom of the prepared baking pan. Spread filling to within 1/2 inch of edge. Crumble reserved dough over the top of the pan. Bake 35 - 40 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool completely on a rack then use the parchment to lift  out of the pan and cut into bars. 

Enjoy! 

Disclaimer: Driscoll's provided me with coupons for myself and the giveaway. They did not compensate me financially for this or any other post. 


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Finishing Oils



There are cooking oils, and then there are finishing oils. Finishing oils are used as a condiment, to finish a dish. They add flavor and texture and generally a little goes a long way. Use finishing oils on salads, pasta, pesto, vegetables and grilled meats. Some finishing oils can also be used in cooking or baking, but that's not their primary use. The less heat they are exposed to, the more nutritional value and the more you will be able to enjoy their flavor.


The roasted nut and seed oils from La Tourangelle are made from local ingredients, pressed in a traditional French oil mill. They are particularly great for salad dressings. If you are using pistachios, hazelnuts or walnuts, adding a splash of these roasted nut oils really intensifies the flavor. Because they are roasted, they have a natural sweetness to them. But they are very delicate and need to be stored in a cool dark place. You can also use them in baked goods, especially nut cakes and tossed with pasta. My favorite is the roasted pistachio. La Tourangelle offers plenty of recipes online.


This past Summer I was sent samples of ?Stoger Oils--tomato seed, chili seed and organic pumpkin seed oil. They are very intense, and really complement the raw or cooked flavors of tomatoes, chili and winter squash. They are not just infused, but made from the actual seeds of the fruits and vegetables. I liked the pumpkin seed oil best (it's also the least expensive), and used it in a butternut squash filling for an appetizer. Stoger recommends using the pumpkin seed oil on ice cream too! It has a rich warm flavor with a hint of sweetness. The tomato oil definitely reminds me of the smell of tomatoes cooked in olive oil.



If you're interested in local oils, you need to check out Round Pond Estate. In addition to making a reasonably priced Rutherford Cabernet, they have a beautiful garden and they not only grow olives, but press them at their own olive oil mill. They offer various opportunities for the public to visit the olive mill and experience fresh olive oil. The next �Fresh Olive Oil Day� is on December 8. Free and open to the public with a reservation (required), Fresh Olive Oil Day gives you the chance to taste different oil varieties both Spanish and Italian, before they are blended and get the freshest, purest oil available. The cost to purchase the fresh pressed oil is 12 cents/ml, with a 250ml minimum. Empty bottles will be provided by Round Pond at $4 per bottle.


Nudo offers the opportunity to "adopt" an olive tree and reap the rewards in olive oil. You choose the orchard and variety of oil tree and receive oil shipments. It's a really unique idea and just reading the different stories behind the different groves transports you. Today only, December 2, 2013, Nudo is offering $20 off your first delivery on all Adopt-an-Olive-Tree personal subscriptions (just use code CYBERNUD69), as well as 20% off their Adopt an Olive Tree gifts (with code CYBERNUD49).

You can also buy extra virgin olive oils from Nudo. I've tried their citrus oils at the Fancy Food Show and recommend them. Today only (December 2, 2013) use the code AMYCITRUS to receive 50% off the Citrus Club Box, which contains a tin each of extra virgin olive oil, zesty lemon oil, and stoneground mandarin oil. Perfect for any dish that needs some brightness.  $19 with discount code.

Or use the code AMYFLAVOR to receive 40% off the Flavor Box Set, which contains 8 tins of Nudo's freshly pressed, beautifully packaged flavored olive oils, including Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Lemon, Chili, Mandarin, Thyme, Basil, Garlic, and Mint. $60 with discount code.



Disclaimer: I received some, but not all  of these oils as review samples. I was not paid to write this post and there are no affiliate links. 


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All about Parmigiano Reggiano & Parmigiano Reggiano Night



Last year I got a chance to visit a caseficio, or cheese maker where Parmigiano Reggiano is made. I had to go early in the morning so I could see the cheese being pulled from curds out of large copper vats. 

I also saw where the cheese rested, where it was bathed in a salty brine and the delicious smelling room where it was aged. And of course I got to try the cheese at various ages.
The main way to distinguish between different types of Parmigiano Reggiano is by age, 14-18 months, 24 months, which is most popular with Italian consumers and 36 months.

Generally speaking, 14-18 month Parmigiano is paler and fruitier, with notes of citrus and pineapple. 24 month Parmigiano is nuttier and more buttery. 36 month Parmigiano is drier and spicier. As it ages, the cheese develops more crunchy crystals and more intensity.

Here in the US we buy Parmigiano Reggiano grated or in chunks, but we don't usually pay much attention to the age, season it was produced or the types of cow's milk. In Parma I brought home Parmigiano Reggiano that was made from the milk of red cows or Vacche Rosse, and also some cheese made in the Summer from cows who graze at a high elevation. Recently I spoke with Nancy Radke, Director of the US information office for the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano about the different special varieties and how to best use the cheese for cooking, and here's what she told me:


"Available in the US in addition to Vacche Rosse, but with more limited distribution, is Bianca Modenese, a Parmigiano Reggiano made with the milk of the other historic breed, the White Modenese. There is one other single breed Parmigiano Reggiano, Solo La Bruna, which is made only with the milk of one of the first Alpine breeds used--the Brown Swiss. 

All of these cheeses are made with milks that have more casein. Higher casein means that longer aging is possible, which allows the cheese to develop a more complex aroma profile. The milk of these breeds is also just a bit more fatty, which makes for great mouth-feel. So when you combine great mouth-feel with complex aromas, great solubility, and a big umami persistent finish, you have the perfect eating cheese, which should be savored the way one would a fine glass of Barolo.

For all purpose cooking, grating, and shaving the 24-month is ideal. For snacking (especially for kids) or making long glorious shavings the 16- to 18-month is great, because it is the least friable and crystalline, so it has a creamier mouth-feel and won't crumble when shaved. The 36-month has the most umami flavor, friability,and solubility, so this is the cheese to grate over pasta, stir into risotto, blend into an Alfredo sauce, layer into lasagne and use in pasta fillings."

If you've ever had a hard time getting Parmigiano Reggiano to melt, now you know why!

Last year Italy was still reeling from the effects of a massive earthquake that destroyed millions of dollars worth of cheese. So the first Parmigiano-Reggiano night was a national celebration of both the cheese, which is a national treasure, and to aid the cheese makers. 

This year marks the second annual Parmigiano Reggiano Night, and it falls on Saturday, November 30th. It's a celebration of the cheese and virtual dinner party the world over. It's also a great time to learn how to taste the cheese try some Parmigiano Reggiano recipes, and get to know and appreciate the cheese. 


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Family Cookbooks Roundup Review



I generally avoid reviewing "family cookbooks" because they tend to focus on food for children. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but I don't happen to have any. Happily several new cookbooks also expand the notion of family and as a result serve a much broader audience. After all, our family should include all the people we care deeply about, not just those related to us by blood.


Whenever I'm in London I end up eating at Leon. In a city with frightfully expensive food, Leon serves what they call "naturally fast food." It's healthy, quick and inspired by flavors from all around the world. They source ingredients responsibly and so it's food that makes you feel good and that you can feel good about. Truly a winning formula. The latest book from Leon (there are two others) is Leon Family & Friends. The book has lots of basic kinds of recipes for things like roast chicken and hummus but also amazing stuff like Anna Hansen's Pumpkin & MIso Cheesecake. There are also some Thai recipes and cool stuff like six ideas for "things on toast" hot chocolate five ways, four risottos and three different versions of salmon cooked in parchment. The recipes are generally easy and appealing and suit kids as well as adults. Bravo! It's a particularly great book for anyone just starting out on their own with or without kids. It's a keeper. 



The Monday Morning Cooking Club book is really my kind of book. It's written by a group of Jewish women a "sisterhood" in Sydney Australia. Their recipes are so homey and comforting. There are tinges of Eastern Europe but also intriguing Indian, Moroccan and Persian recipes too. I want in on this group that cooks and shares Israeli Couscous Soup (inspired by a recipe my dear friend Marlena Spieler), Peach Mascarpone and Raspberry Trifle, Beetroot and Chickpea Salad, Quinoa Tabbouleh, and Viennese Apricot or Plum Dumplings. Australia like the US is a country of immigrants and the book tells their stories. The only potential down side to the book is that some of the recipes use grams as a measurement, not a problem if you have a scale however. It's a keeper.




An American Family Cooks is written by James Beard Award winner Judith Choate and her family; it's the recipes her extended family cooks. "Fancy, some not-so-fancy, and some just plain everyday" is how she describes the 100 recipes. These are very solid recipes by a family of foodies. I mean, who else starts Thanksgiving with fried eggs showered in $500 worth of white truffles? The notes with each recipe are really instructive explaining lots of details about techniques or ingredients. There's lots of Americana here, but also some Mediterranean style recipes too, things like Paella, Mom's Potato Gnocchi and Pate de Campagne to go along with Nana's Chicken Pot Pie, Boston Brown Bread and Dungeness Crab as well as Soft-Shell Crab. It's a good book, but not exactly ground breaking. Keeper? Depends on your cookbook collection.



Sunday Dinners: Food, Family, and Faith from our Favorite Pastors is also a compilation of recipes, but from pastors some of whom rely on butter-flavored vegetable shortening, Velveeta and canned pie filling and others who don't. While there are three appealing Vietnamese dishes and lots of American favorites like Scalloped Potatoes and Sunday Pot Roast, many of the recipes like Slow Cooker Macaroni and Cheese and Strawberry Cake made with a cake mix, strawberry gelatin and frozen berries are frankly not my style. If you know someone who would be inspired by wonderfully written stories of pastors and how food plays a role in their life and their family, this might be a nice book for them. 

Disclaimer: I received review copies of these books and this post includes affiliate links


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Last Minute Thanksgiving Tips





Thanksgiving cocktail
Ruby Sparkler

Recipes from the archive
Chutney Cheese Puffs

Brussels Aprouts with Brown Butter and Hazelnuts 

Brussels Sprouts Slaw with Apple & Walnuts

Grapefruit Radicchio Salad

Savory Roasted Pears

Curried Butternut Squash Soup

Apple Crisp

Cranberry Coffeecake

Turkey help!
Turkey Talk-Line
1-800-BUTTERBALL (288-8372)
open from 6 am until 6 pm CST

What wines go with turkey?
Beaujolais Nouveau
Pinot Noir
Cotes du Rhone
Pinot Grigio
But really, drink whatever you like!

Learn about the holiday?
Laura Schenone's Thanksgiving timeline

Top 10 Thanksgiving leftover ideas

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!


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Vanilla Purr Cambric Recipe




I'm a tea drinker and I love experimenting with it as an ingredient. I make hot chocolate with tea and use tea to smoke chicken. But I have to admit, I only heard the term cambric to describe tea made with milk, such as chai, at an event recently at the T-We Tea shop hosted by the California Milk Processor Board. It's an old fashioned term for a combination of tea, milk and sugar often served to children. But that doesn't mean you can't make it into something enticing for adults. 

The certified tea specialist and proprietor Christopher Coccagna made a number of wonderful drinks for Winter with tea and milk. Some of the drinks had alcohol in them and others didn't. Some used herbal teas and some used black teas. Some will definitely perk you up while others are perfect as a relaxing nightcap. There's really something for everyone, even kids and teetotalers. Check out the recipes for all kinds of luscious tea and milk drinks including Vanilla Mint Cambric, Lavender London Fog Latte and White Russian Caravan at GotMilk.

I'm not much of a bartender, but here's a recipe for a non-alchoholic cambric based drink I created, inspired by the event. I used puerh tea which has a very earthy flavor that is complemented by both vanilla and milk. The name is a play on "puerh" tea but also on the idea of milk making you purr like a cat! 

Vanilla Purr
Serves 2

1/2 cup strongly brewed puerh tea (about 1 Tablespoon for 2 minutes)
1 cup whole milk
1/2 vanilla bean
1 Tablespoon honey or more to taste

In a small saucepan, whisk together the tea, milk, and the seeds scraped from the vanilla bean, split lengthwise. Heat over low heat until steamy. Remove from heat. Strain the tea into a tea pot, and stir in the honey. Pour into two cups and serve.

Enjoy!

Disclaimer: My thanks to the California Milk Advisory Board for inviting me to the event. I was not paid to write this or any other post. 


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