Top Cookbooks 2010: Basics & Behemoths
It's always tough to choose which cookbooks to recommend from the myriad published each year. Today I'm going to share with you the books I think are particularly worthwhile in two categories, basics and behemoths. Next I'll cover sweets and special interests...
BASICS
Ah the basics! This year lots of cookbook authors were returning to simpler recipes. I think it's safe to say that at least some of the time new cooks as well as experienced ones want recipes that are tasty and yet not necessarily time-consuming. Harvest to Heat
There were a lot of "farm to table" cookbooks this year, but this is the only one I am keeping. It balances the voice of farmers, chefs and artisans. The book is filled with contemporary American recipes that are genuinely appealing and unique.
Bookmarked recipes: Angel hair pasta with oyster butter cream sauce and caviar, Creme fraiche galette with heirloom tomatoes, Goat cheese panna cotta with caramelized figs
Why?
I always get nervous with "chef" recipes. But in this case seasoned test kitchen director from Saveur, Kelly Kochendorfer has clearly made sure these recipes will WORK in a home kitchen. They are straight-forward and don't have a million ingredients.
Who?
This is for creative cooks looking for new flavors and excited to use the best ingredients but who don't see the point of torturing them.Heart of the Artichoke
Imagine a chef who spends six months a year in a restaurant making food for the fussiest guests and six months in a tiny galley kitchen with a rickety stove and barely any counter space. Meet David Tanis of Chez Panisse. His recipes are mostly pretty easy, but rely on the best quality ingredients.
Bookmarked recipes: Celery, radish and watercress salad with walnut oil, Buckwheat galettes with ham and cheese, Black sticky rice pudding with coconut cream.
Why?
It's fascinating to see the way a restaurant chef cooks at home, when he wants to, to please himself and his friends.
Who?
Anyone who has access to fantastic quality ingredients and wants to learn how to make them shine.Sara Moulton's Everyday Family Dinners
Sara Moulton isn't on national television everyday anymore, nor is she in the kitchen at Gourmet magazine. Where is Sara? She's at home, cooking dinnner. In touch with the "weeknight cook" in all of us, she seems to know just what we want to eat.
Bookmarked recipes: Chicken cassoulet, Edamame mash, Raspberry almond rugelach
Why?
Duh, this book is just a no-brainer. Appealing recipes, by a cookbook author who will never leave you in the lurch.
Who?
Everyone and anyone responsible for getting dinner on the table.
BEHEMOTHSEvery year there are some huge cookbooks that come out. Not all of them are worth their weight in gold. More is not always better. But sometimes as Mae West famously said, "Too much of a good thing can be wonderful."Around My French Table
I don't know anyone who is not amazed by Dorie Greenspan. She's not only a talented baker and meticulous recipe writer but an internet phenomenon, who happens to lead a charmed life in Paris, New York and Connecticut.
Bookmarked recipes: Mussels and chorizo with or without pasta, Potato chip tortilla, Marie-Helene's apple cake
Why?
Her recipes are detailed but easy-peasy to follow because she is ultimately a home cook, not a restaurant chef. This is like a personal scrapbook of all the recipes she makes. It is impossible not to fall in love with this book.
Who?
Anyone who enjoys cooking and eating more than fussing over food. The New York Times Essential Cookbook
Proving that a cookbook does NOT need photographs to be successful, this is about tried and true recipes from a familiar source and very familiar names--contributors like Mark Bittman, Julia Child, Marcella Hazan, David Chang, Nigella Lawson. Good stuff!
Bookmarked recipes: Marinated flank steak with asian slaw, Roasted carrot and red lentil ragout, Cranberry upside-down cake
Why?
Hat's off to Amanda Hesser for compiling a fantastic set of reader approved recipes and creating new notes that will ensure success with each recipe.
Who?
Anyone who has loved reading the New York Times food section and is looking for solid recipes to rely on. The Sunset Cookbook
I grew up with Sunset magazine, Sunset cookbooks and a philosophy of cooking that was influenced by living in "the West." This is a huge compilation of very contemporary recipes. Sustainable seafood, recipes to make on the grill, tons of salads, Asian inspired dishes and plenty of guacamole.
Bookmarked recipes: Shiraz-soy trip-tip, Frisee, tangerine and sesame salad, Kumquat bon bons
Why?
Because we want to make the most of our bountiful produce and healthy lifestyle
Who?
I don't know if this book will appeal to those not living on the West Coast, but for anyone who is, it will seem like a natural fit.James Beard's American Cookery
Don't you just love the word cookery? It's so old-fashioned. Sometimes old-fashioned is a good thing, especially when it means solid, classic, regional American recipes.
Bookmarked recipes: Watermelon rind pickles, Wilted dandelion salad, Blueberry cake with bourbon cream
Why?
Some recipes should not be lost. They are part of our heritage and more importantly, delectable! I have also NEVER failed with a James Beard recipe.
Who?
Anyone who appreciates the diversity of American cuisine.India The Cookbook
The amount most of us knows about Indian cuisine is miniscule. And yet, who doesn't love Indian food? Making it at home using the best ingredients is a revelation. This book has the largest collection of Indian recipes that I have ever seen. The introductory sections on the regions of India alone is wonderful.
Bookmarked recipes: Dry cabbage in masala, Lamb in chickpea flour and curry yogurt, Coconut filled pancakes
Why?
This encyclopedia of 1000 recipes will be your go-to Indian cooking reference.
Who?
Those who love Indian food but want to experience a wider variety of fresh, tasty food than they can find in any given Indian restaurant.
2010 Foodie Holiday Gift Guide
Every year I fuss and fret over whether or not I should do a holiday shopping post. This year it seems people have saved more, paid off their debts and are ready to spend.
As a food writer and blogger I regularly receive unsolicited samples and review units. Some things I send back, others I give away. Not much really makes the cut. If you are one of those people who is ready to splurge, here are the items I treasure most. Buy something special for someone you love, or better yet, for yourself.
I got a variety of plates when I got married. While I love my vintage Wedgwood, I was disappointed in my everyday china from Crate & Barrel. After a couple of years it was discontinued and after 9 years my set was chipped, faded and ugly, so I got rid of it. What I replaced it with is lovely Villeroy & Boch porcelain dinnerware that I can use in the microwave, dishwasher (if only I had a dishwasher!) and at low temperatures in the oven. It is sturdy, beautiful and I love how well the two patterns mix and match. It has a classic yet contemporary style that I find very appealing. It has also been a joy to use in photography.
The patterns I have are part of the "modern toile" Audun line, Audun Promenade and Audun Fleur. On Amazon the dinner plates are $26 soup bowls are $33 or $35 depending upon which pattern you choose.
Since I have to world's worst bottom-of-the-line oven, I am a toaster oven power user! I just received the Breville SmartOven and I love it already. Why? Because it takes the place of my toaster oven AND my toaster. It is the Cadillac of toaster ovens. It's a toaster oven, that actually toasts bread perfectly every time. No other toaster oven I have owned has ever been able to accomplish that feat!
I wish it was big enough to fit my 12-cup muffin pan, but my mini-muffin pan fits in it easily. I have yet to roast a whole chicken, but because it has a convection feature, I think it will be great. It's perfect for broiling and baking casseroles. The heating elements operate independently giving you a lot more versatility not to mention energy savings. It costs about $250 and the vast majority of reviews on Amazon are overwhelmingly positive.
I have had a Vita-Mix blender. for two years and I still adore it! I use it constantly to make smoothies, blend sauces and soups and puree vegetables. It is simply the best blender I have ever owned. Insanely expensive and yet, I absolutely love it. The least expensive model is about $400.
Speaking of making the cut, these Damascus steak knives from New West KnifeWorks are the nicest steak knives I have ever seen. I have two of them and they are just a pleasure to use. They are elegant, forge-welded blades with 32 layers of Damascus steel resulting in a very fine yet sturdy edge. At $99 a piece they are definitely pricey, but something you will enjoy for years to come.
I lucked out and got a set of Bialetti Aeternum non-stick pans, which are now out of stock. But I would still recommend buying these pans separately (the set only saved you about $10). These are the best non-stick pans I've ever used and I've tried a lot. The pans are environmentally friendly, free of PFOA ( pertluorooctanoic acid) PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) and cadmium. The surface of the pans have a "nano-ceramic" coating that is a water-based coating made of titanium and suspended silicate micro-particles (the main component of glass). It resists scratches, abrasions and offers a smooth, compact and uniform surface that is very easy to clean. There is no flaking and the surface does not stain. They are attractive and the only downside is they need to be handled with care. DO NOT stack them, the coating can chip if you do. The pans cost between $20 and $40 each.
1500 Degrees at Eden Roc in Miami
If you are looking for a kind of late 50's early 60's glamour, it's hard to beat Eden Roc Resort, Miami, on the upper "Golden Mile" of Miami Beach. Though just a short cab ride, it feels a world away from the thumpety-thump of South Beach where the party scene is inescapable. The $200 million renovation has the place feeling fresh and modern with a cool and shimmery color palate and nods to a time when it was the resort of choice with entertainers like Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Lena Horne, Jerry Lewis, Sammy Davis Jr and Elizabeth Taylor.
The property has multiple pools, a great view of the ocean but not a lot of choices when it comes to dining. Fortunately I found the new restaurant on property, 1500 Degrees, to be absolutely wonderful. Hell's Kitchen fans will recognize the name of the chef, Paula DaSilva, a past contestant who was named one of the "Top 40 under 40" by Gold Coast magazine and "Best Celebrity Chef" by Broward/Palm Beach New Times. To be honest, it's hard for me to get excited about yet another steakhouse. 1500 Degrees is described as a farm to table steakhouse, which was good news for me, because you can easily make a meal out of small plates and appetizers.
First up was the local Florida Wahoo ceviche ($13). Ceviche can be found on many Miami menus, but this one was really outstanding. It had the right balance of peppers, cilantro, onions and lime. It managed to be refreshing and savory at the same time.
I don't know if the Pork Belly Tacos with Housemade Kimchee ($7) are always on the menu, but they should be. Shatteringly crunchy morsels with melting bites of pork and juicy kimchee are a mouthwatering treat! I suppose an order of 4 is meant to be shared, but I gobbled them all up myself.
The spiciest dish I tried was the White Water Clams with Chorizo, Peppers and Aji Amarillo Pepper Broth ($15). Chewy nubs of Spanish chorizo and lots of garlic and peppers flavor the clams and the luscious broth. It was a generous portion and I will not soon forget it. The tangy broth was so good I used a spoon to get every last drop.
So as you can see, I didn't even bother ordering steak. I have no idea how the steak is, but am happy that the other dishes were by no means an afterthought. Prices are a what you would expect to find in a hotel, a bit on the high side, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
I was a guest of Eden Roc and 1500 Degrees
Why do YOU cook, Aleta Watson?
San Jose Mercury News readers will surely recognize the name Aleta Watson. Aleta is an award-winning reporter and restaurant reviewer who was on staff there for quite a while.
I'm always curious about what restaurant reviewers choose to cook at home. Thankfully Aleta has a gorgeous blog, Skillet Chronicles, that satisfies my curiosity while inspiring my own creativity. It turns out Aleta cooks the way I do and the same things that appeal to her generally appeal to me too. She is also a proponent of the joy one finds in the kitchen! Can I get an "amen"? If you enjoy my blog, I'm confident you will enjoy discovering hers too.
"The salty tang of preserved lemon in a chicken tagine. The deep savor of slow-cooked cassoulet. The sweet satisfaction of Sicilian cookies stuffed with ground figs and nuts. I cook because I�m a curious eater. I love to taste new foods, explore unfamiliar cooking techniques and share my finds.
When I was growing up, our family meals leaned heavily toward red meat, potatoes and frozen vegetables. Although my mother was a good cook, she stuck with what she knew. Not until I left home did I realize what a wide range of flavors the world had to offer.
A friend introduced me to Chinese food, Indian curries and �Joy of Cooking� and a lifelong love affair with pots and pans began. I reveled in the challenge and creativity of working with my hands in the kitchen after days toiling as a reporter and editor in Bay Area newsrooms. Trying out new recipes and feeding the results to family and friends became one of my favorite pastimes.
Even when I worked as a restaurant critic, I generally preferred cooking to eating out. The food served at most restaurants not only was disappointing but laden with salt and fat. My family ate better when we shopped for and prepared our own meals. We knew where our ingredients came from and the food was fresher, better tasting and more nutritious.
Now, I�m on a mission to help more people discover the pleasures of cooking for themselves and their families, using local ingredients in season. Everyone knows it�s good for the wallet, better for the body, and a boon for the planet. But too few people seem to realize how much fun it can be."
La Cocina Gift Fair is Today!
La Cocina is hosting a holiday gift fair where you will have a chance to try and buy lots of wonderful things from participants in their food business incubator program and other local entrepreneurs.
Some of my favorites not to miss are Clairesquares for chocolate covered crunchy "flapjack" oat bars, Kika�s Treats for chocolate covered caramelized graham crackers, Love and Hum�mus Co for delectable organic hummus, Sajen for spicy and healthy Indone�sian drinks. In addition, Marcia Gagliardi will be there signing copies of her terrific book, The Tablehopper's Guide to Dining and Drinking in San Francisco.
In my experience, food gifts are some the most appreciated gifts of all. In this case you'll also be supporting low-income entrepreneurs in our community and helping turn them into successful business owners.
Where: Mis�sion Cul�tural Cen�ter for Latino Arts
2868 Mission Street between 24th and 25th St., San Francisco
When: Fri�day, Decem�ber 10th, 4PM � 9PM
Com�ing? RSVP on Facebook
Vendors also include: Liga Masiva � Cof�fee and Teas | Deli�cias Sal�vadore�nas � Sal�vado�ran Pas�tries | Estrellita�s Snacks � Yucca and Plan�tain Chips | Neo Cocoa � Truf�fles | Sabores del Sur � Alfa�jores and Empanadas | Onig�illy � Japan�ese Snacks | Pick-A-Peck Pick�les � Pick�les | 18 Rea�sons � Classes for Food Lovers | De La Paz � Cof�fee and Teas | End�less Sum�mer Sweets � Ket�tle Corn and Caramel Apples | En Vie Nat�u�rals � Bath and Body Prod�ucts | Kim Jensen Mosaics � Arti�san Mosaics | J. Telford Tex�tiles � Dec�o�ra�tive Tex�tiles | Meat�pa�per � Mag�a�zines and Posters | Mimi McCurry�s � Chimichurri | Mix�coatl � Mex�i�can Arti�san Crafts | Rub�ber Ducky Soap Co � Bath and Body Prod�ucts | Spiffy Mutts � Pet Fash�ion | Stone�house Olive Oil � Olive Oils | Sweets Col�lec�tion � Mex�i�can Gel�latins | 3 Fish Stu�dios � Art Prints | Urban Bazaar � Kitchen�wares | Yvonne�s South�ern Sweets � Pra�lines and Cook�ies | Mex�ico by Hand � Mex�i�can Kitchen�wars and Crafts | House Kom�bucha � Kom�bucha | and more�
I hope to see you there!
Cheese and Cheesemakers of Wisconsin
Wisconsin is not just dairy country, but cheese country. In fact 90% of the milk Wisconsin produces goes into cheese. The state took home more awards than any other at this years American Cheese Society conference. License plates in Wisconsin don't really say "Eat Cheese or Die" but they might as well!
While I was a guest on a recent tour of Wisconsin, I did spend my own cold hard cash to buy cheese from some of my favorite cheesemakers. Here are just a few of those I met, and a rundown of what I bought from them.
I met Tony Hook of Hook's Cheese at the Dane Country Farmer's Market. Tony has a sparkle in his eye and gave me a Cheshire cat grin when I asked too many nosy questions about how he makes his cheese. He makes an amazing number of very fine aged cheddar and blue cheeses. I adore his washed rind Tilston Point Blue, named after Stilton. It's rich and creamy and has a terrific bite. The texture is crumbly but it can be sliced. I also think it is a tremendous value. Of course I paid a pittance at the farmer's market but even in stores it is very reasonably priced.
After meeting Willi Lehner of Bleu Mont Dairy, seeing his beautiful caves and tasting his cheeses, I couldn't wait to bring some of his cheese home to share. Willi, who has dual American and Swiss citizenship, learned to make cheese in Switzerland, where his parents are from. He is creative in his approach, and deeply committed to environmental sustainability, but it is his focus on quality that struck me the most. He is more concerned about making the best possible cheese he can, than about making the most cheese or the most money. He makes his cheese from some of the finest milk available, straight from the cows at Uplands. He makes two similar cheeses, Alpine Renegade and a bandaged cheddar. The cheddar is my favorite because it has such depth, with lots of tang and toasty flavor. It's pricey, but worth every penny.
I am sure Brenda Jensen's sheep adore her. She is so gentle and friendly and yet passionate about making cheese and running Hidden Springs Farm and dairy in a humane and sustainable manner. Her soft sheep's milk cheese, Driftless, tastes a bit like ricotta, only better. Her latest cheese, Meadow Melody is a combination of cow and sheep's milk cheese making it more affordable but just as delicious as her other cheeses. It's semi-firm, grassy and has notes of brown butter.
I also purchased cheese from another award-winning cheesemaker who unfortunately I didn't get a chance to meet this time around. Marieke Penterman of Hollands Family Cheese is a Wisconsin dairy farmer who emigrated here from the Netherlands in 2002. She makes a fantastic gouda, that is aged over 18 months. While I love gouda melted on toast, this cheese is too precious to use for cooking. A thin slice and a piece of apple is heavenly.
You might think I only met "artisanal" cheesemakers but that's not the case. I went to three very modern cheesemaking facilities, including Emmi Roth Kase. At home I buy their buttermilk blue and am now smitten with their smoky Moody Blue. While their Swiss machinery was state of the art, what struck me was how much was still being done by hand.
It's important to note that with cheese you are dealing with a living product and so it is not always the same. There is only so much you can control. A sample of every wheel of cheese is tasted in order to determine which rounds will be suitable for aging and for how long. Yes, there are timers and thermometers, but there are also knowledgeable cheesemakers involved in every step of the process. Even in the most modern "factory" settings cheesemakers are still artisans as far as I'm concerned, doing much by hand and tasting as they go.
My sincere thanks to the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board for inviting me on their wonderful Fall tour!
Potluck Posts 12/2
Since my last post I've been to Miami where I snacked on a fabulous medianoche sandwich. I made appetizers and Emily Luchetti's Cranberry Pecan Pumpkin Upside Down Cake for Thanksgiving and am now heading off again, this time to Montreal for the weekend.
Over on the Frommer's website, on the Amy & Amy Between Bites blog you'll find a post that features an interview with Dorie Greenspan. I got her thoughts on cooking at home and in Paris and bunch of great recommendations plus a recipe. You'll also find an interview with Vanessa Barrington where she shares tips for making food to take when you travel, plus a recipe from her book, DIY Delicious.
On the Epicurious blog, EpiLog are posts on intriguing flavor combinations. Read about the combination of Peppermint & Mocha, Pecans & Pumpkin Pie Spice, including a recipe for roasted pumpkin pie spice pecans, Cranberries & Camembert, and a post on Savory Oatmeal ideas.
Next week I hope to have some more cookbook recommendations, and a new recipe. I've been working on a number of recipes for clients and as soon as those go online I will let you know.

